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Here is the sugar and yeast mixture that produces CO2:

(click on the image for a larger view)

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Do not forget that CO2 bedbug traps work on the floor and should be placed behind each leg of the bed.

To neutralize and starve bedbugs to death, you need a bedbug shield on the bed.  A shield will stop all bedbug bites at once and will keep bedbug from being able to feed.

The shield is like a magnet for bedbugs. It is an impasse that bedbugs cannot get through or around it. Bedbugs are attracted by the warmth of your body but are stopped by this impenetrable shield

Here is the Shield:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U

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Look at those filament hooks at the end of the bedbug’s legs. They are the secret on how to make bedbug barriers.

Bedbugs can climb on anything with asperities, wood, fabric and clothing are bedbug friendly. They have a hard time on smooth surfaces like porcelain or glass and also polished metal.

Bedbug Barriers are vertical surfaces too slippery for bedbugs to climb on.

Bedbugs lose their grip and fall to the floor where the Co2 Traps are waiting for them.

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• Clear 1/2″ tape or larger-___ (Too smooth for bedbugs to hook in and climb vertically on the  shiny side)

Common 1/2″ or 3/4″ scotch tape on top of  painter’s tape to protect the paint.

• (Adult bedbugs are less than 1/4″ and  the shiny side of common clear scotch tape is too smooth for bedbugs to hook into and be able to climb up. )

Very useful to make barriers or interceptors on the legs of the bed and around the base of the furniture.

Also used to make barriers around the room where you want to keep bedbugs from going.

around light switches, thermostats and electrical outlets

on the ceiling

with or without painter’s tape underneath it to remove it easily later

Talcum powder ___ (makes any smooth surface too slippery for bedbugs to climb on)

Painter’s Plastic  *** A major component to stop and eliminate the bedbugs in the bed

• Used over any item (couch, recliner, double beds, upholstered furniture…etc) to stop bedbug bites

• Used to encase articles in plastic and kill bedbugs with dry ice.

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BED BUG BARRIERS

Part of the bedbug problem comes from the fact that bedbugs are free to come and go at will.  Barriers are needed to keep the bedbug from going places where we do not want them to go such as in the furniture, in our belongings, on the walls to get into trims, light switches, thermostats, picture frames or anything they can hide in, on the ceiling to drop off on the bed,etc.

The objective is to keep bed bugs on the floor with easy access to the traps for their last meal.

Another objective is to be discreet is waging the battle. Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is very messy, slow to kill, and bed bugs will avoid piles of it.

At all times, the cost and effectiveness is at the top of the list.

Bedbugs are classified as crawlers but they are not, bedbugs are climbers with hooks at the end of their legs to give them a grip. They find it very easy to climb on wood, fabric, clothes, anything with asperities that they can hang from. Smooth surfaces are more difficult and they slip and fall off more often on them. Glass, porcelain, polished metal, smooth and shiny plastics are natural bedbug barriers because bedbugs cannot hook into them or only with difficulties. The smoother the surface is, the more difficult it is for the bedbug to hang to it.

SCOTCH TAPE + TALCUM POWDER

Scotch tape btushed with talcum powder makes the best bedbug barriers.  The tape is so slick that bedbugs can only climb up on it at a 90 angle with a great deal of work, losing their grip and falling off them most of the time. At 180 degree nobedbug can hang on. Use a strip of scotch tape all along the perimeter of the ceiling to prevent their access to your bed by dropping. The top shiny side is so smooth bed bugs cannot grip especially with the added benefit of gravity. Painter’s tape applied first to the ceiling will protect the paint.  Place the Scotch tape on the painters tape.  The strip does not have to be any wider than one-half inch.

Scotch tape will also stop bedbugs from going up the wall from the floor. A strip of Scotch tape placed on the wall above the baseboard of the walls and over heaters will keep any bedbug from climbing any further up because bedbugs are not be able to climb on it or only with great difficulties.  To completely cover the possibility of the bugs climbing the wall,  brush talcum powder to the shiny side of the tape once it is in place., Bedbugs can’t cross that.

Scotch Tape and clear packaging tape, dusted with talcum powder can be applied to endless items in your entire home.

• Place strips of scotch tape on the legs of furniture, such as chairs, tables, stands, etc.
• Wrap packaging tape dusted with talcum powder around bed legs, with or without interceptors.
• ————————————————————————————–

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Sunday 2012.07.29

What a concept, “normal” life.

It took me a while to come back and from my obsession with bedbugs, I might never get over it. If I can put things back in place, bed against the wall as before and everything else it is because I know I do not have bedbugs and I can catch them if they ever come back.

I do not fear the bedbug anymore and never will. I can defeat the undefeatable bedbug at will and there is not a single situation, even long distance where I will not win. Without the nightmare it brings, the bedbug is just an insect, a mere annoyance not worth all the problems it causes.

The bedbug scare is blown out of proportion is by those who profit from it and that’s what we are stuck with, misinformation for the sake of a business.. If you get rid of the scare, both the bedbug and the poison pusher lose their power. The old saying, “… don’t let the bedbug bite” regains all its meaning and we can come back to normal life knowing that no insect can survive if we do not feed them.

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Part of the bedbug problem comes from the fact that bedbugs are free to come and go at will. There are no bedbug barriers not even poison which is used for prevention and causes bedbug adaptation and resistance, the pesticide escalation.

Barriers are needed to keep the bedbug from going places where we do not want them to go, in the furniture, in our belongings, on the walls to get into trims, light switches, thermostats, picture frames or anything they can hide into, on the ceiling to drop off on the bed…etc.

Bedbugs are classified as crawlers but they are not, bedbugs are climbers with hooks at the end of their legs to give them a grip. They find it very easy to climb on wood, fabric, clothes, anything with asperities that they can hang from. Smooth surfaces are more difficult and they slip and fall off more often on them. Glass, porcelain, polished metal, smooth and shiny plastics are natural bedbug barriers because bedbugs cannot hook into them or only with difficulties. The smoother the surface is, the more difficult it is for the bedbug to hang to it.

Scotch tape makes the best bedbug barriers. Their top shiny side is so smooth and slick that bedbugs can only climb up on it at a 90 angle with a great deal of work, losing their grip and falling off them most of the time. At 180 degree no bedbug can hang on. So we use a strip of scotch tape all along the perimeter of the ceiling to stop all possible bedbug traffic and that make sense. It is also true to stop bedbugs from going up the wall from the floor. A strip of Scotch tape above the baseboard of the walls and over heaters will keep any bedbug from climbing any further up because bedbugs are not be able to climb on it or only with great difficulties.

Damn! We were so close to have barriers that we could use to control where bedbugs go and be plagued by a doubt that some bedbugs can go through it! A barrier is good only if none of them can do it. And it better be a 100% guarantee. 

Enters Talcum powder.

Brush the surface of the Scotch tape with talcum powder and bedbugs will lose whatever grip they had on the Scotch tape. The strip of tape becomes impossible to cross. It is the perfect bedbug barrier that can be fitted to our needs at extreme low cost.

Can be used on bed legs to make interceptors, keeping a bedbug on the floor from climbing up to the bed. Underneath furniture to keep bedbugs from getting into it.

It does not have to be larger than ½” since adult bedbugs are less than ¼”. Amazing, very discrete barriers, hardly noticeable yet 100% guaranteed to stop all foraging bedbugs and make them fall down to the floor where we want them. Off the ceiling, off the walls and off the furniture. Force bedbugs down to the floor where the traps are and you will catch them all.

Bedbugs in baseboards and below the strip of Scotch tape are unable to go up the wall and will go towards the bed when they will come out to feed where traps are waiting for them

Barriers keeps the bedbugs from going anywhere but towards the traps. We got them surrounded and control their circulation.

Want to get rid of the bedbug, do not let them go wherever they want and stop feeding them. They will be eager to go into the traps

What do you know, we can outsmart bedbugs! 

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Joe S

Question, does the room need to be vacant when using this trap or can you sleep in the same room while using the trap?  Were you able to eradicate all of your bedbugs using this method or do you still find them from time to time?  Thank you!

@__Joe S__ Excellent questions, it will give you the basics of the trap.

The trap works best when the room is occupied. Bedbugs are attracted to the CO2 of our breath and they follow it to find us where we sleep. Moving away from our usual sleeping place will make bedbugs look for us and they will follow us, making a second harborage close to this new place where we now sleep.

Bedbugs are also attracted by the heat of our body. They can see us from a distance using night vision (also called infrared vision or thermal vision), we cannot hide from bedbugs with our body at 98.6°F against a room temperature background of 70-80°F. In the eyes of the bedbugs we glow like embers in the night. We are the only warm spot in the room and that is what they always search to feed from our warm blood.

Bedbugs spot the warmth of our body across the room and then follow the CO2 of our breath cascading down from the top of the bed and on to the floor, to find us when they get close. Body heat and CO2 are the only two bedbug attractants. So it is what we use to make a trap that stops them and defeats them.

We know that bedbugs will always find us and will always come towards us at night to feed. All we need is to make obstacles and lures placed in their path to make it impossible for them to reach us. There are bedbugs hiding somewhere in the room and nobody can find bedbugs when they are hiding. But we know that they will come out, and we know which path they will take to get to us while we sleep.

The first thing to do is to eliminate all pathways they take to climb up in the bed. Bedbugs cannot jump or fly. So we need to create a small space between the bed and anything else that might touch it. Move the bed ½” away from the walls and any other piece of furniture, that way there will be only the legs of the bed that bedbugs will be able to use to climb up in it. Since bedbugs follow CO2, place four traps, one behind each leg of the bed. Bedbugs will detect the CO2 emitted by the traps and will follow it, climb on the outside of the small glass pitfalls made especially for them and will fall in the pitfalls, never being to get out since the inside is made of slippery glass impossible to get a grip on it and climb out. Bedbugs inside a glass filled with CO2 die of suffocation in 12-24 hours. All bedbugs in the room now have to use the floor to try to feed, and all bedbugs have to feed. All bedbugs will be lured by the CO2 from the traps, so all bedbugs in the room will end up into the traps. That is how we clear bedbugs out of a whole room.

Now, there also are bedbugs already in the bed. Those bedbugs will not go down to the floor and will not be caught by the traps. To stop those bedbugs, we need to cover the bed with a shield. A bedbug shield is made with a regular contour sheet placed directly on the mattress to which we fix a plastic skirt hanging down all the way around the bed. The plastic skirt is a long strip of plastic, about 2 feet wide by 25 feet long. You can get this plastic in a local hardware store; ask for a painter’s plastic 2 mils thick. You can get it for only a few dollars and it will last until there are no more bedbugs. Fix the plastic skirt to the sides of the mattress, leaving a small space (about one inch) above the floor. Once adjusted in place, cover the mattress with the fabric contour sheet (we use fabric because it is more comfortable than plastic which can become slippery and sweaty), and seal the sheet to the top of the skirt with duct tape that adheres well to both plastic and fabric (I suggest white duct tape to make the seal of the shield look better). Here is an example how to make your own bedbug shield: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U.

As soon as you put a shield on the bed, all bedbug bites stop. Bedbugs cannot go through the fabric of the contour sheet, no more than they can go through the plastic of the skirt. The shield is an impenetrable barrier that keeps the bedbugs on one side of the shield while you can sleep soundly on the other side without getting a bite. It is the same simple logic of putting a screen in the window if you do not want to be bothered by mosquitoes.

With a shield on the bed and CO2 bedbug traps on the floor, no bedbug can reach you and bite you. Every time they try, they end up in the pitfalls where they get suffocated by the CO2 or they get stuck under the shield where they cannot bite and end up starving to death.

Will you ever find a bedbug from time to time? No. The shield and the traps eliminate bedbugs right down to the last one and catches them and eliminate them as soon as they try to get to you. It is the ultimate defense against bedbugs and prevents them from ever coming back. This has worked for tens of thousands of people so far and nobody has ever regretted making their own bedbug traps. If you want something done right, my father used to tell me, do it yourself. You are in control with the bedbug shield and the bedbug trap.

With all my respect

JulesNoise

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Joe S

+JnSavedByTheBell Thank you Jules.  Very much appreciated.  I made my first trap using your instructions tonight.  I will work on the bed shield tomorrow.  Thank you so much!!  —Joe

@__Joe S__ I’m glad you found something for you in our meeting. The trap works, it can catch a single bedbug or a thousand. Sometimes people have difficulties making their own traps. Using glass, plastic, sugar and yeast to get rid of bedbugs is not what they expect and the idea is totally against what the Industry wants us to believe. Their best interest is that we cannot do it ourselves. Of course!

But you will be free of bedbugs; all by yourself you will eliminate all of them right down to the last one, without any possibility of spreading them. That’s the power of a lure and an impenetrable barrier. Meanwhile, we can sleep soundly without a bite; the shield takes care of that while the traps catch them on the floor.

CO2, body heat, bedbug traps, bedbug shields. Take the time to have a look at http://julesnoise.com/ and find more about bedbugs and the CO2 Bedbug Trap.

With friendship

JulesNoise

… To be continued…

Nándor Nagy-Fülöp

How long does a trap like this lasts?

 @__Nándor Nagy-Fülöp__ Longer tha any bedbug can last. The yeast and sugar mixture lasts 2-3 weeks and must be renewed about 5-6 times but the trap can be kept running as long as you want. Mine have been running for four years as sentinels against bedbugs and I never had a bite since day one. I keep them running because I still regularly go in bedbug infested places to make traps for others. I still do it locally and I have been doing it on the internet for about three years now. The hundreds of thousands of traps I made all over the world eliminated millions of bedbugs and nothing would please me more than eliminating the ones you are stuck with without any mean to fight back, other than poison.

I do not poison children, old and ailing people. I prefer to make bedbug suffer through CO2 suffocation and starvation to death. I hate pesticides with a passion. So here it is, a bedbug trap that is all natural, based on the strengths and weaknesses of the bedbug. A bedbug trap that catches and starves them when it does not suffocate them.

And it is so simple, Nándor Nagy-Fülöp, all you need is the know-how and anybody, anywhere around the world can make their own, without giving money to no one, other than the inexpensive things you can get locally.

• Here is what you need, the Recipe: http://julesnoise.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/c02-bedbug-trap-__-recipe5.jpg
• Something to put the mixture in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlpsDjat1KI&list=TLa-a6_nGWZWw5rNwbJDbOyOWst2Wr2Q2O
• And a bedbug shield: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U

The whole trap costs less than 15$ (mostly sugar and yeast every second week), and the longest a dormant bedbug can last is three months without feeding at human room temperature. That is how long you must run the traps, If I kept mine running till now, it is to use them as prevention, If I ever bring a bedbug home, it will come towards my bed when I sleep at night. It can see me but cannot see my sentinels waiting and luring it into a deep glass pitfall.  in one of my traps before it will get to my shield

Bedbugs die of starvation when you do not let them feed on your blood. As simple as that, we have bedbugs only because they can feed! Make them stop it and you will become bedbug free. It makes sense, doesn’t it?

Here is the way to starve them. As soon as you will put a bedbug shield on your bed, all bedbug bites will stop at once. The Shield is an impenetrable barrier between you and the bedbugs. Anybody can make one. It keeps bedbugs from being able to reach you, no matter if they are hiding somewhere in the room, dormant or not; or already in the bed.

• Bedbugs that cannot feed cannot molt and grow.
• Bedbugs that cannot feed cannot lay eggs.
• Bedbugs that cannot feed cannot survive.

And that’s exactly what the bedbug shield does. It keeps bedbugs from sucking your blood and thrive on it. Take your blood away from bedbugs and they have nothing to feed on.

An impenetrable barrier and four deadly lures behind each leg of the bed. Winning the bedbug war, are you in?

JulesNoise

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Home — Haciendo CO2 Trampas para los chinches de cama

El caso de una mujer embarazada con el colchón lleno de chinches

Ella no se puede imaginar a su bebé siendo picado por los chinches como ella, o tener que ponerlo bajo el peligro del veneno.

Propoxur___http://www.microkat.gr/msds/Propoxur.htm

Usted no puede rociar veneno en un colchón. Es un veneno de clase 3 y nunca debería tener contacto con la piel; y especialmente no en los bebés porque el veneno es 20 veces más tóxico para ellos que para los adultos. Lo que ella necesita es una trampa para chinches, es la única cosa que puede salvar a su bebé de los chinches de cama y de aquellos que quieren implementar veneno.

Así es como hacer una trampa. La primera cosa que se debe hacer es parar las picaduras inmediatamente y sacar los chinches de cama no no mas del colchón sino también del resto de la cama, así como también sacar los chinches que se encuentren en el resto de la habitación.

*No sirve de nada solucionar el problema del colchón solamente, pero se puede hacer fácilmente cubriendo el colchón completamente con una bolsa de plástico y poniendo adentro del plástico de 2 a 3 libras de hielo seco para sofocar y matar todos los chinches en 36 horas.

*Abra la bolsa y deje que el Co2 se escape sin peligro en una habitación o cuarto ventilado y todos los chinches que están en el colchón estarán muertos. Limpie el colchón, ya está libre de chinches.

*Lo anterior servirá para librarse de los chinches que están en el colchón , pero si el colchón estaba lleno de chinches, también hay chinches en el somier, en el marco de la cama y en la cabecera y probablemente también hay chinches en el resto de la habitación

Convierta toda la cama en una trampa para chinches.

———-Acá está el procedimiento a seguir: ——-

1. Cubra toda la cama

*Consiga una hoja de plástico larga 10’x15’—(O haga la suya propia usando una cortina de baño o aun también pegando con cinta adhesiva hojas de plástico para recoger hojas para formar una sola pieza de plástico.

*Ponga el plástico  en la cabecera de la cama empezando desde el piso hacia arriba, sobre la cima y bajando hacia el colchón. Empújela completamente hacia abajo donde está el somier y de nuevo hacia arriba para hacer un pliegue y extienda el plástico sobre el colchón con ambos lados colgando hacia abajo donde está el piso.

*Haga otro pliegue en las patas de la cama o simplemente abajo si no tiene nada,

*Amarre el plástico alrededor del centro del colchón y en los pliegues con un lazo fuerte, una cuerda pequeña o cualquier cosa que sea conveniente para usted.

(Nota: Si usted ya eliminó los chinches del colchón con el procedimiento de hielo seco descrito arriba, el colchón puede ponerse sobre el plástico que en este caso estará amarrado hacia la mitad del somier. Usted puede dormir tranquilamente en el colchón.)

*Use unas tijeras para cortar los lados del plástico dejando un dedo de espacio sobre el piso.

2. Haga trampas y póngalas debajo de la cama

*Trampas pueden hacerse con cosas y materiales que ya usted tiene en casa

*Para hacer una trampa usted necesita cuatro tazas pequeñas, cuatro botellas de 2 litros y tubería de 1/4”, como el que se usa para los acuarios y se puede encontrar en una tienda para mascotas. Note: algunas personas ingeniosas hacen sus tubos con pitillos o popotes.

*Adhiera o pegue un pedazo de tela o toalla de papel a la parte de afuera de las tazas. Córtela derecha en la parte superior y corte la parte inferior de manera que haga contacto con el piso, chinches usarán la tela para escalar hasta que lleguen a la parte superior de la taza.

*Espolvoree y cepille un poco de talco para bebé en la parte de adentro de la taza.

*Haga un hoyo en la tapa de la botella con la parte puntuda de las tijeras, asegúrese que el hoyo este apenas lo suficientemente grande para meter el tubo y que quede apretado.

*Consiga una media o calcetín viejo y córtele la parte de los dedos y póngaselo a la botella para cubrirla y protegerla de la luz.

*Mida la longitud del tubo, que vaya desde la botella (convenientemente puesta de manera que no estorbe y este cerca de la cabecera de la cama y contra la pared) hacia las tazas que estarán puestas una cerca cada esquina de la cama.

*Un extremo irá en el hoyo en la tapa de la botella, use pegante para asegurar el tubo a la tapa. El otro extremo estará sujetado con cinta adhesiva a la taza.

*La primera trampa esta lista, usted necesitará cuatro por cada cama.

La mezla deberá durar de 2 a 3 semanas.

Trampas famosas:

Habían seis trampas y atraparon 170-190 chinches inactivos (adormecidos)

Otro tipo de trampa usada por el mismo usuario experimentado usa una simple lata grande de café usada como centinela..  de esta manera, no se tropieza con ella por accidente.  La lata grande de café con una botella de dos litros adentro es usada como centinela 24 horas al día… Despaciosamente liberando el Co2.

La trampa usada como centinela está puesta en el mismo closet mostrado en la foto de arriba.

“Las latas de café tienen un anillo a lo largo de la parte de adentro, lo que me causaba la preocupación que podría interferir con la caída abrupta que se desea, entonces decidí cortar el anillo con un abrelatas. El anillo que se muestra en la foto es lo que corté, salió perfecto porque no dejo ninguna esquina en la parte de arriba, luego le pegue la falda de tela, parecida a las otras que se muestran en las fotos e hice la mezcla lenta. +mitad de levadura + mezcla de agua.

Trampas creativas:

Esta trampa es muy eficiente porque usa los dos mayores atrayentes de chinches: Calor y Co2

El calor viene de una almohadilla eléctrica que se pone en el respaldar de una silla para niños y el generador de Co2 en la sentadera de la silla. Un tubo transporta el Co2 hacia una taza invertida debajo de la silla y está cubierta con una tela en la parte de afuera para facilitar que los chinches escalen fácilmente hacia arriba y con talco para bebes en la parte de adentro haciendo imposible que salgan de la taza cuando caigan en ella.

Otra trampa ingeniosa aun más eficiente porque la almohadilla eléctrica calienta la cesta de la basura, haciéndola mas visible para los chinches y protegiendo el generador de Co2 dentro de ella para que no sea derribado. Note los espaciadores bajo de la cesta de la basura para permitir que los chinches vayan hacia ella y adentro de la taza.

Estas son trampas excelentes!!

Otra trampa creativa!

Un butaco de cocina con una almohadilla eléctrica y un generador de CO2 amarillo

El atrapador de chinches está en el piso y está siendo llenado de CO2 con un tubo.

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

3. Genere Co2 para atraer a los chinches

*Nosotros hacemos Co2 con levadura y azúcar en agua tibia (35C)(100F)

*Cada trampa necesita un sobrecito (7-8 gr) de levadura y dos tazas de azúcar

*Con un embudo, eche una cucharada de azucar en la botella y el contenido de un sobre de levadura, agregue una taza de agua tibia (35C) y agite vigorosamente haste que se formen burbujas.

*Deje reposar por 10 minutes y cuando se forme un anillo de espuma

*Llene la botella hasta la mitad con agua tibia y agregue las dos tazas de azúcar. Use una tapa extra para tapar la botella y agitar hasta disolver el azúcar en el agua con la levadura.

*Llene la botella dejando un espacio pequeño en la parte de arriba y agítelo una vez mas.

*La mezcla de CO2 está hecha, se deberán ver unas cuantas burbujas pequeñas subiendo a la superficie de la mezcla que tendrá un aspecto turbio.

*Ponga la tapa con el tubo en la botella y olfatee el último extremo del tubo que va hacia la taza, debería oler un poco como a pan horneado.

*La trampa está lista y funcionando.

———Use la cama sin ser picado———

*Tienda la cama con sábanas limpias, una sábana con resorte que se ajuste a los pliegues del colchón.

*Asegúrese que ninguna parte de la cama o de las sábanas hagan contacto con la pared o el piso, asegúrese también que no haya ningún puente que los chinches puedan usar para pasar de la pared a la cama y alcanzar la cima donde usted estará durmiendo sin ser picado; porque todos los chinches estarán atrapados debajo del plástico, y no podrán traspasarlo, la única opción que tendrán es irse hacia el piso donde usted habrá puesto las trampas; usted estará protegido de picaduras.

*Los chinches que se encuentren en el resto de la habitación serán atraídos hacia la cama y caerán en las trampas también. Si usted tiene cuidado durante el día, los chinches irán hacia las trampas en la noche mientras usted duerme tranquilamente.

4.__Matar los últimos chinches y limpieza final

*Usted atrapará la mayoría de los chinches en la primera semana o dos y los números irán decreciendo, en las semanas 3 y 4 no habrán mas chinches en las trampas. Será tiempo de poner toda la cama en un plástico que se cerrará completamente formando una bolsa, en donde se pondrán tres libras de hielo seco sobre una pieza de icopor o sobre una toalla gruesa doblada en el piso y se dejará cerrado para ser abierto 48 horas después. Este procedimiento matará todos los chinches que hayan quedado en la cama.

*Los chinches en el cuarto son atrapados con las trampas y los chinches en la cama son eliminados en la bolsa. Quite los plásticos y aspire toda la cama para limpiarla de los chinches muertos, limpie con un cepillo los pliegues del colchón y limpie las manchas con un limpiador para alfombras. Vuelva a armar la cama y ponga solamente dos trampas debajo de la cama, funcionando con la mezcla ligera de CO2 (la mitad de la levadura en la mezcla) Estas dos trampas serán los centinelas que lo protegerán de otra infestación.

La cama y toda la habitación están libres de chinches y serán también a prueba de chinches.

Ya tuvimos suficiente al estar siendo comidos vivos por los chinches y de la pesadilla que esto representa.

*Sabemos que si controlamos el alimento del insect, entonces estamos controlando al insecto.

—–No alimente a los chinches—

*Si usted no alimenta a los chinches, se morirán de hambre; cuando salgan a comer, atrápelos con las trampas, es tan simple como eso

*——Atrape a los chinches debajo del plástico impenetrable—

*Ponga obstáculos insuperables y barreras en su camino, un escudo completo de plástico sobre la cama y no podrán llegar a su fuente de alimento (usted) y no podrán picar para alimentarse.

*Así es como me gusta ver a mis chinches…

…En un ataúd

¿Tiene chinches?

Yo también tuve, lo cual me hizo disgustar tanto que decidí desquitarme.

Los empecé a atrapar encontrando su debilidad y su manera de comportamiento, e hice una trampa con los resultados. Es solo un insecto que tiene un solo recurso de alimento. Quíteles su alimento y se librara del insecto. Eso fue lo que hice, dejé de alimentarlos.

Chinches pueden ir y venir y no hay nada que los pare. Usted puede traer chinches de cualquier lugar y de cualquier persona. “Hola, como está..hmm, tiene un chinche en la pierna, en su pantalón…no más le digo”

El primer chinche de la nada.

Una vez en casa, el chinche se desprende de su enganche y rápidamente encuentra un lugar para esconderse.

*Los chinches tienen visión nocturna y son cegados con la luz, siempre se tratan de esconder de ella e ir a un lugar más oscuro. Por la noche, el chinche ve el calor de su huésped, y cuando ya esta inmóvil por fin, se va por el piso hasta la cama.

Se sube hasta la cama, hacia el calor de nuestro cuerpo y pica cuando alcanza la piel.

*Se alimenta completamente hasta satisfacerse y entonces se devuelve a esconderse no muy lejos, en el pliegue o doblez del colchón para regresar en unos pocos días después de haber puesto huevos.

Se crecen y multiplican siempre cerca a su recurso de alimento, usan nuestra cama como criadero.

*Cuando se esparcen, son imposibles de encontrar.

Déjelos en paz, es mas fácil atraparlos cuando no los esparcimos por todo lado.

Chinches son una pesadilla por la manera como reaccionamos a ellos, pero el insecto en realidad no hace mucho. Pican y se esconden, raramente se ven, hasta que empiezan a esparcirse.

*El esparcimiento natural ocurre cuando la infestación progresa, cuando los primeros huevos del chinche original se hacen casi adultos y el primer macho agresivo aparece. Otros chinches adultos, hembras, hembras ninfas y machos ninfas también, empiezan a dejar la cama, después de una inseminación traumática; ninfas se esconderán y mudaran cuando van alcanzando otra etapa de maduración, y los chinches hembras pondrán huevos y volverán a picar.

*Esparcimiento adicional es causado por nuestro comportamiento y acciones, como rociando veneno y molestándolos fuera de la cama.

Es mejor atraparlos cuando todavía están juntos en la cama

———-La trampa de CO2—————

Cuando cada artefacto falla como trampa es en la falta de conocimiento del chinche y cuando no mas se apunta a una de sus características.

Cualquier tratamiento y/o producto fallará si no se apunta a los siguientes:

*Chinches en la cama

*Chinches en la habitación

*Chinches inactivas (adormecidas)

———-No esparza los chinches con:—————-

*Limpiezas intensivas. Es imposible eliminar completamente los chinches de cualquier lugar, se elimina algunos y los demás se esparcen en la habitación

*Veneno. Chinches son resistentes al veneno. Aun el veneno mas potente, usado por profesionales no elimina todos los chinches completamente,  y “profesionales” siempre esperan hasta que haya una infestación completa.

*La resistencia a los químicos sigue aumentando y nos lleva al escalamiento de pesticidas. Mientras ellos prueban diferentes y a veces venenos ilegales (Propoxur), usted esta atrapado en la pesadilla de los chinches. Veneno no erradica los chinches, los esparce y cause una infestación mayor; cualquier repelente esparce los chinches.

———-No se deshaga de los muebles————–

Algunas veces, cuando la gente ya no puede más, se deshacen de los muebles para salir del problema de los chinches, no funciona, sacar todo excepto el lavaplatos no lo librara de los chinches que se esconden en las grietas y hendiduras del apartamento o casa y no servirá para nada para librarse de los chinches inactivos en lugares de difícil alcance como detrás de los estantes del closet, lámparas, termostatos, revestimientos en las puertas…etc.  Nadie puede encontrar chinches esparcidos que se han hecho inactivos, ni siquiera el más entrenado de los caninos.

Basic information about the bedbug

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bed_bug http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef636.asp http://www.ca.uky.edu/entomology/entfacts/ef636.asp

It is a myth that bed bugs can live for a year without feeding, it can only occur in cold temperatures and never in heated human dwellings

At temperatures of 55F, without ant activity and feeding, they live about five months.

At temperatures of 68F,without activity and feeding, they live about three months.

Alvero Romaro, University of Kentucky performed experiments where colonies of bedbugs were placed in an unoccupied building at 68F and recorded their behavior with time lapse cameras. The bed bugs didn’t forage or feed and the study gave a normal mortality rate of 92 days (average)

At the 57th Annual Meeting of the Entomological Society of America in 2009, newer generations of pesticide-resistant bed bugs in Virginia were reported to survive only two months without feeding.

Bedbugs are creatures of the night and they have night vision Most experts think that bedbugs have a highly developped sense of smell and some companies pretend that pheromones along with heat and Co2 is a main attractant for bedbugs.

So they make  a bedbug pate that they sell as pheromones, the “scent” that will attract  bedbugs without having a clue what pheromones do. It is like the eleven spices and fine herbs in Col.Sanders recipe. Nobody knows what they are and they are supposed to make chicken taste better.  Of course spices makes food taste better but you do not need them to enjoy food.

The truth is that bedbugs do not need pheromones to find us. Bedbugs like all insects use pheromones to communicate between themselves and are totally indifferent to human smells. They detect us by sight, not by smell.

They have thermal vision, the same as mosquitoes, here is what they see:

Our body heat at 37,2C (98,6F) against a room temperature of 20C (68F) background.  How can they miss us, for bedbugs we are glowing. That is why they are attracted to our heat, not because they feel it but because they can see it.

Bring your hand close to them and it will make them react : 

Bedbugs can hide from us but we cannot hide from them.

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Bedbugs always go in the darker side og things

It is very simple, it is for the same reason. If they can see  heat which is the lower part of the light spectrum,  day light is too bright and blinds them.

Some people think that keeping the lights on at night will keep the bedbugs from biting them, they are partially right. It is difficult for bedbugs to see heat when there is too much light. It is the same as for us, we can see a fire from a great distance at night but it is not as bright during the day.

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How come bedbugs are attracted to Co2?

If bedbugs can see heat, they do not always see it.  Light is detected only in direct line of sight. Whe we are sleeping on the bed, bedbugs on the floor cannot see us. All they see is a faint glow somewhere overhead but which is blocked  by the mattress and the box spring. All they can do is try to climb up towards that direction. They need something else to guide themto the human sleeping on top of the bed and that is our respiration.

Everybody knows by now that Co2 attract bedbugs  and the same experts that think that pheromones attract bedbugs also think that bedbugs smell odorless CO2.

Bedbugs do not smell CO2, they can see it. CO2 is invisible to humans, if it would not be, we would see smoke blowing out of our nose with each breath we take, but that is exactly what bedbugs see.  Few people know that Co2 absorbs infrared and becomes dark for any creature that can see heat which is in the infrared.

That’s right, the bedbug thermal vision allows them to see what is invisible to us.

CO2 absorbs infrared

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot5n9m4whaw

CO2 experiment

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SeYfl45X1wo

Kid’s Science Experiment To Show CO2 Is Heavier Than Air

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwp&v=AvpenpBXAmM&NR=1

There are 200 millions bedbugs in New-York.

It is the motherlode of all bedbugs.

Wikipedia, The free Encyclopedia ____Bed bug infestations have resurged in recent years, for reasons which are not clear, but contributing factors may be complacency, ever-increasing resistance to pesticides, international travel. The current wave of bed bug infestations across America has spawned an industry for bedbug prevention, eradication and the reporting of infestations.

http://www.vdacs.virginia.gov/pesticides/pdffiles/bb-biology1.pdf

Introduction to the Bedbug Lifecycle

The bedbugs that are infesting homes today are the descendents of cave dwelling bugs that originally fed on the blood of bats. When humans began living in the caves, the bugs began feeding on humans. Later, when humans moved out of the caves and started their agricultural civilizations, the bugs moved with them. Since that time, humans have carried bedbugs all over the world.

Bedbugs belong to a family of insects called Cimicidae. All members of this family feed exclusively on blood. The common bedbug (Cimex lectularius) has five developmental life stages. Each immature life stage (called nymphs or instars) must take a blood meal in order to develop into the next life stage. Because bedbugs, like all insects, have their skeleton on the outside of their body (exoskeleton) they have to shed their exoskeleton in order to grow larger. This shedding of the exoskeleton is called molting. A bedbug nymph must take a blood meal to molt successfully. After growing through five instar molts, the bedbug becomes an adult. Adult bedbugs, both male and female, must also take regular blood meals to reproduce.

The diagram above illustrates the bedbug lifecycle including all instars, before and after feeding. The total development process from and egg to an adult can take place in about 37 days at optimal temperatures (>72° F). Adult bedbugs have a variable life span of two months to nearly one year depending on regular access to blood meals and favorable temperatures.

Feeding Behavior

Bed bugs have a cryptic lifestyle, meaning they spend the majority of their time hiding together in cracks and crevices where they will not be seen or disturbed. However, they become active at night, between midnight and 5:00 am. It is during this time, when the human host is typically in their deepest sleep, that bed bugs like to feed.

Bed bugs are known to travel many yards to reach their human host. Bed bugs are attracted to CO2 produced by the host exhalations, and they are also attracted to body heat.

—— However, bed bugs are only able to detect these host cues over short distances (about 3 feet away for CO2 and even less for heat). It is not well understood how bed bugs hiding in a closet are able tofind a host located in a bed across the room. However, bed bugs are able to move very quickly, and it is thought that they do a lot of wandering around before they are able to locate their food. —–

• ( The author does not seem to know that bedbugs have thermal vision and can detect a heat source by sight across the room as well as bedbugs can see CO2 from a distance as wisps and trails of dark smoke. Bedbugs do not have to wander around to locate their food.)

Ideally, most bed bugs would like to aggregate near the host’s bed, on the mattress or in the boxsprings, when they are not feeding. However, this is not always possible in heavy infestations where bed bugs are crowded and many bed bugs have to seek refuge at distances several yards from the host.

• (It is called natural scattering, there is also human scattering from intense cleaning activities and pesticide scattering from commercial products and bedbug management companies)

Once a bed bug finds the host, they probe the skin with their mouthparts to find a capillary space that allows the blood to flow rapidly into their bodies. A bed bug may probe the skin several times before it starts to feed. This probing will result in the host receiving several bites from the same bug. Once the bed bug settles on a location, it will feed for 5-10 minutes. After the bed bug is full, it will leave the host and return to a crack or crevice, typically where other bed bugs are aggregating. The bed bug will then begin digesting and excreting their meal.

Bed bugs usually feed every 3-7 days, which means that the majority of the population is in the digesting state, and not feeding most of the time.

Mating Behavior

After feeding, adult bed bugs, particularly the males, are very interested in mating. Cimicid bugs have unique method of mating called traumatic insemination. This mating behavior is considered traumatic because the male, instead of inserting his reproductive organ (paramere) into the female genitalia, he literally stabs it through her body wall into a specialized organ on her right side, called the Organ of Berlese. The male sperm is released into the female’s body cavity, where over the next several hours it will migrate to her ovaries and fertilize her eggs.

The traumatic insemination stabbing creates a wound in the female’s body that leaves a scar. The female’s body must heal from this wound and consequently, females are known to leave aggregations after being mated several times to avoid any further abuse. Studies have shown that the process of healing from traumatic insemination has a significant impact on the female’s ability to produce eggs. In fact, females that mate only once, and are not subjected to repeated stabbings by the male will produce 25 percent more eggs than females that are mated repeatedly.

In practical terms, this means that a single mated female brought into a home can cause an infestation without having a male present, as long as she has access to regular blood meals. The female will eventually run out of sperm, and will have to mate again to fertilize her eggs. However, she can easily mate with her own offspring after they become adults to continue the cycle.

Egg Production:

The number of egg batches a female will produce in her lifetime is dependent on her access to regular blood meals. The more meals the female can take the greater the number of eggs she will produce. For example, if the average adult female is able to feed every week, she will produce many more eggs than if she is able to feed only once a month.

On average:
• A female can produce between 5 and 20 eggs from a single blood meal.
• Eggs can be laid singly or in groups. A wandering female can lay an egg anywhere in a room.
• Under optimal conditions, egg mortality is low and approximately 97% of the bed bug eggs hatch successfully. At room temperature (>70° F), 60 percent of the eggs will hatch when they are 6 days old; >90 percent will have hatched by the time they are 9 days old.
• Egg hatch time can be increased by several days by lowering ambient temperature (to 50° F).

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Bed bug

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

BED BUG
Cimex lectularius
SCIENTIFIC CLASSIFICATION
Kingdom:	Animalia
Phylum:	Arthropoda
Class:	Insecta
Order:	Hemiptera
Suborder:	Heteroptera
Infraorder:	Cimicomorpha
Superfamily:	Cimicoidea
Family:	Cimicidae Latreille, 1802
SUBFAMILIES, GENERA & SPECIES
Subfamily Afrociminae[show] Subfamily Cimicinae[show] Subfamily Cacodminae[show] Subfamily Haematosiphoninae[show] Subfamily Latrocimicinae[show] Subfamily Primicimicinae[show]

Bed bugs are parasitic insects that feed on blood The term is used loosely to refer to any species of the genus Cimex, and even more loosely to refer to any member of the family Cimicidae (cimicids). The common bedbug, Cimex lectularius, is the most infamous species of the family and prefers to feed on human blood. The name of the “bed bug” is derived from the insect’s preferred habitat of houses and especially beds or other areas where people sleep. Bed bugs are mainly active at night, but are not exclusivelynocturnal and are capable of feeding on their hosts without being noticed.

A number of adverse health effects may occur due to bed bug bites, including skin rashes, psychological effects, andallergic symptoms. Diagnosis involves both finding bed bugs and the occurrence of compatible symptoms.

Bed bugs have been known as human parasites for thousands of years.^[5] At a point in the early 1940s, they were mostly eradicated in the developed world, but have recently increased in prevalence since 1995. Because infestation of human habitats has been on the increase, bed bug bites and related conditions have been on the rise, as well.

Contents

• 1 Description
  • 1.1 Physical
  • 1.2 Feeding habits
  • 1.3 Reproduction
  • 1.4 Life stages
• 2 Infestation
  • 2.1 Cause
  • 2.2 Detection
  • 2.3 Management
  • 2.4 Predators
• 3 Epidemiology
• 4 History
• 5 Society and culture
  • 5.1 Naming
• 6 See also
• 7 References
• 8 Further reading
• 9 External links

Description

Physical

Adult bed bugs are light brown to reddish-brown, flattened, oval-shaped and have no hind wings, but front wings are vestigial and reduced to pad-like structures. They have segmented abdomens with microscopic hairs that give them a banded appearance. Adults grow to 4–5 mm in length and 1.5–3 mm wide. Newly hatched nymphs are translucent, lighter in colour and become browner as they moult and reach maturity. Bed bugs may be mistaken for other insects, such as booklice, small cockroaches, or carpet beetles, however when warm and active, their movements are more ant-like, and like most other true bugs, they emit a characteristic disagreeable odor when crushed.

Bed bugs use pheromones and kairomones to communicate regarding nesting locations, feeding and reproduction.

The life span of bed bugs varies by species and is also dependent on feeding.

Bed bugs can survive a wide range of temperatures and atmospheric compositions. Below 16.1 °C (61.0 °F), adults enter semihibernation and can survive longer; they can survive for at least five days at −10 °C (14 °F), but will die after 15 minutes of exposure to −32 °C (−26 °F) They show high desiccation tolerance, surviving low humidity and a 35–40 °C range even with loss of one-third of body weight; earlier life stages are more susceptible to drying out than later ones. The thermal death point for C. lectularius is high: 45 °C (113 °F), and all stages of life are killed by 7 min of exposure to 46 °C (115 °F).

Bed bugs cannot survive high concentrations of carbon dioxide for very long;

Exposure to nearly pure nitrogen atmospheres, however, appears to have relatively little effect even after 72 hours.  ___( Not surprising since air is composed of nearly 80% nitrogen and is a normal condition for all life)

Feeding habits

Scanning electron micrograph (SEM) ofCimex lectularius, digitally colorized with the insect’s skin-piercing mouthparts highlighted in purple and red

Bed bugs are obligatory hematophagous (bloodsucking) insects. Most species feed on humans only when other prey are unavailable. Bed bugs are attracted to their hosts primarily by carbon dioxide, secondarily by warmth, and also by certain chemicals.

A bed bug pierces the skin of its host with what is called a stylet fascicle. This is a unit composed of the maxillae and mandibles which have been modified into elongated shapes from a basic, ancestral style. The right and left maxillary stylets are connected at their midline and a section at the centerline forms a large food canal and a smaller salivary canal. The entire maxillary and mandibular bundle penetrates the skin. The tips of the right and left maxillary stylets are not the same; the right is hook-like and curved, and the left is straight. The right and left mandibular stylets extend along the outer sides of their respective maxillary stylets and do not reach anywhere near the tip of the fused maxillary stylets. The stylets are retained in a groove in the labium, and during feeding, they are freed from the groove as the jointed labium is bent or folded out of the way; its tip never enters the wound. The mandibular stylet tips have small teeth and through alternately moving these stylets back and forth, the insect cuts a path through tissue for the maxillary bundle to reach an appropriately sized blood vessel. Feeding by sucking for about three to five minutes or more, the bug then withdraws the stylet bundle from the feeding position and retracts it back into the labial groove, folds the entire unit back under the head, and returns to its hiding place. It takes between five to ten minutes for a bed bug to become completely engorged with blood.

It is a myth that bed bugs can live for a year without feeding, it can only occur in cold temperatures and never in heated human dwellings

At temperatures of 55F, without ant activity and feeding, they live about five months.

At temperatures of 68F,without activity and feeding, they live about three months.

Alvero Romaro, University of Kentucky performed experiments where colonies of bedbugs were placed in an unoccupied building at 68F and recorded their behavior with time lapse cameras. The bed bugs didn’t forage or feed and the study gave a normal mortality rate of 92 days (average)

At the 57th Annual Meeting of the Entomological Society of America in 2009, newer generations of pesticide-resistant bed bugs in Virginia were reported to survive only two months without feeding.

 

DNA from human blood meals from bed bugs can be recovered for up to 90 days, which may allow them to be used for forensic purposes for identifying on whom the bed bugs have been feeding.

Reproduction

A bed bug (Cimex lectularius)traumatically inseminates another

All bed bugs mate by traumatic insemination.

Female bed bugs possess a reproductive tract that functions duringoviposition, but the male does not use this tract for sperm insemination.

Instead, the male pierces the female’s abdomenwith his hypodermic genitalia and ejaculates into the body cavity. In all bed bug species except Primicimex cavernis, sperm are injected into the mesospermalege, a component of thespermalege, a secondary genital structure that reduces the wounding and immunological costs of traumatic insemination. Injected sperm travel via the haemolymph (blood) to sperm storage structures called seminal conceptacles, with fertilisation eventually taking place at the ovaries.

Male bed bugs always attempt to mate with other males and pierce the latter in the abdomen. This behaviour occurs because sexual attraction in bed bugs is based primarily on size, and males will mount any freshly fed partner regardless of age or sex. This behavior of the agressive males causes natural scattering  

The “bed bug alarm pheromone” consists of (E)-2-octenal and (E)-2-hexenal. It is released when a bed bug is disturbed, as during an attack by a predator. A 2009 study demonstrated the alarm pheromone is also released by male bed bugs to repel other males who attempt to mate with them.

C. lectularius and C. hemipterus will mate with each other given the opportunity, but the eggs then produced are usually sterile. In a 1988 study, one of 479 eggs was fertile and resulted in a hybrid, C. hemipterus ×lectularius.

Life stages

Bed bugs have six life stages (five immature and an adult stage). They will shed their skins through a molting process (ecdysis) throughout multiple stages of their lives. The discarded outer shells look like clear, empty exoskeletons of the bugs themselves. Bed bugs must molt six times before becoming fertile adults.

• 

  Cimex lectularius

• 

  Bed bug (4 mm length; 2.5 mm width), shown in a film roll plastic container, on the right is the recently sloughed skin from its nymph stage

• 

  A bed bug nymph feeding on a host

• 

  Blood-fed Cimex lectularius (Note the differences in color with respect to digestion of blood meal)

  

• A bed bug with hunger bubbles visible in its gut

Infestation

A side of a face showing red blotchy marks covering much of it

Main article: Bed bug infestation

Bed bugs can cause a number of health effects, including skin rashes, psychological effects, and allergic symptoms. They are able to be infected by at least 28 human pathogens, but no study has clearly found the insect is able to transmit the pathogen to a human being. Bed bug bites or cimicosis may lead to a range of skin manifestations from no visible effects to prominent blisters. Diagnosis involves both finding bed bugs and the occurrence of compatible symptoms. Treatment involves the elimination of the insect but is otherwise symptomatic.^[31] They have been found with methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus MRSA and with vancomycin-resistant Enterococcus faecium (VRE), but the significance of this is still unknown.

Cause

Dwellings can become infested with bed bugs in a variety of ways, such as:

• Bugs and eggs inadvertently brought in from other infested dwellings by visiting pets; or a visiting person’s clothing or luggage;
• Infested items (such as furniture, clothing, or backpacks) brought in;
• Nearby dwellings or infested items, if easy routes are available for travel (through duct work or false ceilings);
• Wild animals (such as bats or birds) that may also harbor bed bugs or related species such as thebat bug;
• People or pets visiting an infested areas (apartment, subway, movie theater, or hotel) and carrying the bugs to another area on their clothing, luggage, or bodies.

Detection

An engorged female bed bug (C. lectularius) with eggs, discovered in the screw hole of a wooden bed frame

Bed bugs are elusive and usually nocturnal, which can make them hard to spot. They often lodge unnoticed in dark crevices, and eggs can be nestled in fabric seams. Aside from bite symptoms, signs include fecal spots, blood smears on sheets, and molts.

Bed bugs can be found singly, but often congregate once established. They usually remain close to hosts, commonly in or near beds or couches. Harborage areas can vary greatly, however, including luggage, vehicles, furniture and bedside clutter. Bed bugs may also nest near animals that have nested within a dwelling, such as bats, birds, or rodents. The eggs of bed bugs are found in similar places where the bed bugs themselves are found, and are attached to surfaces by a sticky substance. Attractant devices for detection use heat and/orcarbon dioxide.

A few companies are experimenting with high speed gas chromatography to detect bed bugs and other insect vermin.

Bed bugs can be detected by their characteristic smell of rotting raspberries.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Bed bug detection dogs are trained to pinpoint infestations, with an unproven possible accuracy rate of 97.5%, based upon tests conducted under controlled conditions by researchers paid by pest management companies. The success rates in these tests does not reflect real-world success rates of pest companies’ dogs, operating with many more variables in the field and are much lower and unreliable. 

Dog detection of a nest or a colony can often occur in minutes (bedbugs are not hard to find, they are in the bed)  but fail to detect lone dormant bedbugs elsewhere in the room, espacially when the bedbug hides out of reach of the dog sense of smell like in ceiling and high shelves in closets.

It is an attempt to ride on the bedbug for money. Exterminator use them to validate their services but no dog can detect the bedbugs that have been pushed into the walls by poison. When the student moves in, that dormant bedbug will detect him/her and restart the infestation. The student will then be blamed for the exterminator’s failure. 

Bed bug detection dog in New York

It is a stupid way to detect bedbugs as it submits the dog to sniffing poison and hurt the animal. Most die of health problems later in their life and are put under to end their pain. The only purpose they serve is to profit pest management companies to verify if their poison worked. 

Common sensewill tell you that bedbugs are increasingly resistant to poison and that dogs will always be sniffing poison until they get sick and they die.

 If you love an animal as they claim they do, they would not put them in such dangerous “working” conditions.

Dog trainers who use dog’s amazing sense of smell like that should be sent to jail for cruelty to animals.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Management

Main article: Bed bug control techniques

Eradication of bed bugs frequently requires a combination of pesticide, making the bedbug resistant to poison by overexposure and spreading the bedbugs around and nonpesticide approaches.

Pesticides that have historically been found to be ineffective include: pyrethroids, dichlorvos and malathion. Resistance to pesticides has increased significantly over time and negative health effects from their use are of concern.

Mechanical approaches, such as vacuuming up the insects and expensive heat treating or useless wrapping mattresses, have been recommended.

The carbamate insecticide Propoxur is highly toxic to bed bugs, but in the United States the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has been reluctant to approve such an indoor use because of its potential toxicity to children after chronic exposure.   .^[43]  

Wake up people, the life of our children is now at stake and poison pushers are desperately trying to make it legal again to cover their failure to control the bedbug! 

Predators

Natural enemies of bed bugs include the masked hunter (also known as “masked bed bug hunter”),^[44]cockroaches,^[45] ants, spiders (particularly Thanatus flavidus), mites and centipedes. The Pharaoh ant‘s (Monomorium pharaonis) venom is lethal to bed bugs. Biological pest control is not very practical for eliminating bed bugs from human dwellings.

Epidemiology

Main article: Epidemiology of bed bugs

Bed bugs occur around the world. Rates of infestations in developed countries, while decreasing from the 1930s to the 1980s, have increased dramatically since the 1980s. Previously, they were common in the developing world, but rare in the developed world. The increase in the developed world may have been caused by increased international travel, resistance to insecticides, and the use of ^[47][48] The fall in bed bug populations after the 1930s in the developed world is believed to be partly due to the use of DDT to kill cockroaches. The invention of the vacuum cleaner and simplification of furniture design may have also played a role. Others believe it might simply be the cyclical nature of the organism.The exact causes of this resurgence remain unclear but strongly points towards the use of ineffective repellents; that all poisons are.

It is wrongly ascribed to greater foreign travel, more frequent exchange of second-hand furnishings among homes, a greater focus on control of other pests, resulting in neglect of bed bug countermeasures, and increasing resistance to pesticides.

The common bed bug (Cimex lectularius) is the species best adapted to human environments. It is found in temperate climates throughout the world. Other species include Cimex hemipterus, found in tropical regions, which also infests poultry and bats, and Leptocimex boueti, found in the tropics of West Africa and South America, which infests bats and humans. Cimex pilosellus and Cimex pipistrella primarily infest bats, whileHaematosiphon inodora, a species of North America, primarily infests poultry.

History

An 1860 engraving of parts of a bed bug. A. Intestines. – B. Antenna of the Male. – C Eye. – D. Haustellum, or Sucker, closed. – E. Side view of Sucker. – F. Under Part of Head. – G. Under Lip. – GG. Hair of the Tube, and outside Cases. – H. Egg-Bag. – I. Worm emerging from the Eggs

C. lectularius may have originated in the Middle East in caves inhabited by bats and humans.

Bed bugs were mentioned in ancient Greece as early as 400 BC, and were later mentioned by Aristotle. Pliny’s Natural History, first published circa 77 AD in Rome, claimed bed bugs had medicinal value in treating ailments such as snake bites and ear infections. (Belief in the medicinal use of bed bugs persisted until at least the 18th century, when Guettard recommended their use in the treatment of hysteria.^[52]) Bed bugs were first mentioned in Germany in the 11th century, in France in the 13th century and in England in 1583, though they remained rare in England until 1670. Some in the 18th century believed bed bugs had been brought to London with supplies of wood to rebuild the city after the Great Fire of London (1666). Giovanni Antonio Scopoli noted their presence in Carniola (roughly equivalent to present-day Slovenia) in the 18th century.

Traditional methods of repelling and/or killing bed bugs include the use of plants, fungi, and insects (or their extracts), such asblack pepper; black cohosh (Actaea racemosa); Pseudarthria hookeri; Laggera alata (Chinese yángmáo cǎo | 羊毛草); Eucalyptus saligna oil; henna (Lawsonia inermis or camphire); “infused oil ofMelolontha vulgaris” (presumably cockchafer); fly agaric (Amanita muscaria); Actaea spp. (e.g. black cohosh); tobacco; “heated oil of Terebinthina” (i.e. true turpentine); wild mint (Mentha arvensis); narrow-leaved pepperwort (Lepidium ruderale); Myrica spp. (e.g. bayberry); Robert geranium (Geranium robertianum);bugbane (Cimicifuga spp.); “herb and seeds of Cannabis“; “opulus” berries (possibly maple or European cranberrybush); masked hunter bugs (Reduvius personatus), “and many others”.

In the mid-19th century, smoke from peat fires was recommended.

Dusts have been used to ward off insects from grain storage for centuries, including “plant ash, lime, dolomite, certain types of soil, and diatomaceous earth or Kieselguhr”. Of these, diatomaceous earth in particular has seen a revival as a nontoxic (when in amorphous form) residual pesticide for bed bug abatement. Insects exposed to diatomaceous earth may take several days to die.

Basket-work panels were put around beds and shaken out in the morning in the UK and in France in the 19th century. Scattering leaves of plants with microscopic hooked hairs around a bed at night, then sweeping them up in the morning and burning them, was a technique reportedly used in southern Rhodesia and in the Balkans.

Prior to the mid-20th century, bed bugs were very common. According to a report by the UK Ministry of Health, in 1933, all the houses in many areas had some degree of bed bug infestation.  The increase in bed bug populations in the early 20th century has been blamed on the advent of electric heating, which allowed bed bugs to thrive year-round instead of only in warm weather.

Bed bugs were a serious problem during World War II. General MacArthur commented that bed bugs are the “greatest nuisance insect problem … at bases in the U.S”.

The decline of bed bug populations in the 20th century is often credited to potent pesticides that had not previously been widely available.. Other contributing factors that are less frequently mentioned in news reports are increased public awareness and slum clearance programs that combined pesticide use with steam disinfection, relocation of slum dwellers to new housing, and in some cases also follow-up inspections for several months after relocated tenants moved into their new housing.

Bed bug infestations have resurged in recent years for reasons which are not clear, but contributing factors may be complacency, increased resistance, bans on pesticides and increased international travel. The current wave of bed bug infestations across America has spawned an industry for bed bug prevention, eradication and the reporting of infestations.

Society and culture

The saying “Good night, sleep tight, don’t let the bed bugs bite.” is common for parents to say to young children before they go to sleep.^[66]

Naming

The term bed bug may also be spelled bedbug or bed-bug. They have been known by a variety of other names, including wall louse, mahogany flat, crimson rambler, heavy dragoon, chinche bug, and redcoat.

• List of cutaneous conditions

References

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3. ^ ^{a b c d e f} Reinhardt, Klaus; Siva-Jothy, Michael T. (Jan 2007). “Biology of the Bed Bugs (Cimicidae)”. Annual Review of Entomology 52: 351–374.doi:10.1146/annurev.ento.52.040306.133913.PMID 16968204. Retrieved 26 May 2010.
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35. ^ Daniel J. DeNoon Do Bedbugs Spread MRSA? Drug-Resistant Bacteria Cultured From Bedbugs. WebMD. http://www.webmd.com/skin-problems-and-treatments/news/20110511/do-bedbugs-spread-mrsa
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42. ^ {{Juliano, Michael C., “Dogs don’t let the bed bugs bite”, The Advocate of Stamford, Connecticut, p. 1, 21 August 2009}}
43. ^ New York Times. In Search of a Bedbug Solution.Published: 4 September 2010.
44. ^ Hahn, Jeffrey (November 1999). “Masked hunters”. Yard & Garden Briefs. University of Minnesota Extension Service: Yard & Garden Clinic. Retrieved 27 May 2010.
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50. ^ [4] p. 131
51. ^ Cranshaw, W.S.; Camper, M.; Peairs, F.B. (Feb 2009). “Bat Bugs and Bed Bugs”. Colorado State University Extension. Retrieved 27 May 2010.
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53. ^ “That soon after the Fire of London, in some of the new-built Houses they were observ’d to appear, and were never noted to have been seen in the old, tho’ they were then so few, as to be little taken notice of; yet as they were only seen in Firr-Timber, ’twas conjectured they were then first brought to England in them; of which most of the new Houses were partly built, instead of the good Oak destroy’d in the old.” John Southall, A Treatise of Buggs [sic], pp. 16–17.http://www.archive.org/details/atreatisebuggss00soutgoog
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Further reading

• Stephen Doggett. Bed Bugs: Clinical Relevance and Control Options. Clinical Microbiological Reviews, 25(1):164–192.
• Stephen Doggett. A Code of Practice for the Control of Bed Bugs in Australia. Draft 4th edition, ICPMR & AEPMA, Sydney Australia, September 2011. ISBN 1-74080-135-0. This is free fromwww.bedbug.org.au.
• Stephen Doggett. A Bed Bug Management Policy for Accommodation Providers. First ed, ICPMR, Sydney Australia, Sep 2011. This is free from www.bedbug.org.au.
• David Cain, Richard Strand. Bed Bug Beware: An easy to understand guide to bed bugs, their prevention and control. Loughborough, United Kingdom: Foxhill Publishing, March 2009. ISBN 978-0-9562617-0-0
• Larry Pinto, Richard Cooper, Sandy Kraft. Bed Bug Handbook: The Complete Guide to Bed Bugs and Their Control. Mechanicsville, Maryland: Pinto & Associates, December 2007. ISBN 978-0-9788878-1-0
• Forsyth, Adrian. A Natural History of Sex: The Ecology and Evolution of Mating Behavior. Richmond Hill, Ontario: Firefly Books, 2001. ISBN 1-55209-481-2.
• MacQuitty, Miranda, and Lawrence Mound. Megabugs: The Natural History Museum Book of Insects. New York: Random House Children’s Books, 1995. ISBN 1-898304-37-8, ISBN 1-85868-045-X.
• Goddard, Jerome A. The Physician’s Guide to Arthropods of Medical Importance (second edition).

External links

Find more about Bed bugs on Wikipedia’ssister projects:
	Definitions and translations from Wiktionary
	Images and media from Commons
	Learning resources from Wikiversity
	News stories from Wikinews
	Quotations from Wikiquote
	Source texts from Wikisource
	Textbooks from Wikibooks

Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Cimex lectularius (Bed bug)

Wikisource has the text of the1911 Encyclopædia Britannicaarticle Bug (insect).

• bed bug on the University of Florida/IFAS Featured Creatures Web site
• Pollack, Richard; Alpert, Gary (2005). “Bedbugs: Biology and Management”. Harvard School of Public Health. Retrieved 2010-06-21.
• National Geographic segment on Bed bugs
• Bed Bug Fact Sheet highlights prevention tips as well as information on habits, habitat and health threats
• Bed bugs – University of Sydney and Westmead Hospital Department of Medical Entomology
• “Vector surveillance and control: Bed bug fact sheet” NYC Department of Health and Mental Hygiene 12 January 2008
• Understanding and Controlling Bed Bugs – National Pesticide Information Center
• Bed Bug Infestations in an Urban Environment, Stephen W. Hwang, Tomislav J. Svoboda, Iain J. De Jong, Karl J. Kabasele, and Evie Gogosis : Emerging Infectious Diseases, Vol. 11, No. 4, April 2005.
• Barb Ogg (2010). “Bed Bug Management”. Insects, Spiders, Mice and More. University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension in Lancaster County. Retrieved 2010-06-21.
• Taisey, Allison A.; Neltner, Tom (Feb 2010). What’s Working for Bed Bug Control in Multifamily Housing: Reconciling best practices with research and the realities of implementation. National Center for Healthy Housing
• CISR: Center for Invasive Species Research More information on Bed Bugs, with lots of photos and video

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To make CO2, you need:

• 2 cups of sugar
• 1 envelope (7-8g) active dry yeast
• 2 quarts of lukewarm water (40C or 100F)

The mixture should last 2-3 weeks

• It will make CO2 as long as the liquid is light tan color and cloudy with few slow rising tiny bubbles forming a thin ring on top of the brew. When the mixture turns clear (lemonade like) the fermentation is spent and you should empty it, rinse the bottle thoroughly with the hottest water from the faucet and make another mix.

• (click on the image for a larger view)

Use the traps To make sure that all bedbugs are dead, it is best to keep the traps running for at least 90 days, which is the average length of time that bedbugs can last dormant without a meal. I recommend keeping two traps running after that period but using only half the yeast in the recipe to make the bottles last twice as long and use them as sentinels against re-infestation. with a Bedbug Shield. A bedbug shield is an impenetrable barrier that is put on the bed and that stops all and every bedbug bites at once. Along with the traps it will get rid of all bedbugs completely and right down to the last one. The Shield and the Traps leave no bedbug behind. The Shield can be found at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U

°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°

New comment on your video: 

Easiest and Fastest Bedbug Trap ever

     General19791

Now I just use dining room chairs as my bed. Lay some nice covers on the seats for my back. That’s how stressed I am with these creatures. What if I used CO2 traps & sit the chair legs on some sticky traps as well as using myself as bait. Will that work?

@__ General19791

Yes, it does work that way. You guessed the basic idea of how to set-up and make your own bedbug traps. CO2 traps placed on the floor and underneath the bed (dining room chairs in your case) with sticky tape under the chair legs (or a bedbug shield if you want to use your bed again).

• The CO2 traps will catch bedbugs on the move, going towards you and trying to climb up on the legs of the chairs.
• The sticky tape will keep bedbugs down on the floor while you sleep above, hopefully without a bite.

It is a simple method that will keep bedbugs from being able to feed and will break their life cycle. The traps will catch the bedbugs coming out of hiding when they get hungry. Since they do not have anything else but your blood to feed on, the bedbugs will keep trying and the sticky tapes will block their path while the traps lure them into glass pitfalls from which they cannot get out of. After a few feeding cycles, all bedbugs will have tried to feed and failed, all will be caught by the traps.

Sleeping on dining room chairs must be uncomfortable and deprive you of sleep. I suggest that you go back to your bed and use a bedbug shield to keep bedbugs from being able to reach and bite you. A bedbug shield is an impenetrable barrier made with a simple fitted sheet placed directly on the mattress and to which we fix (duct tape) a plastic skirt that goes down almost to the floor and goes all around the bed. Bedbugs cannot go or bite through the fabric fitted sheet and they cannot get through the hanging plastic skirt or get across it near the floor. All bedbugs are stopped and get stuck underneath the shield to slowly die of starvation while you sleep soundly above the shield and without a single bite. That’s the first thing that happens when you use a shield, all bedbug bites stop at once. No more bites. That’s what you are trying to do by using sticky tape under chair legs, keep bedbugs from being able to bite you. The bedbug shield does the same thing but to perfection allowing you to reclaim your bed and sleep on it as if there were no bedbugs.

• You will find an example of how to make your own bedbug shield at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U

• See the “Bedbug Free” page of the CO2 Bedbug Trap website at: http://julesnoise.com/2014/02/05/4/

• The recipe to make CO2 for the traps you saw in the Youtube video at: http://julesnoise.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/c02-bedbug-trap-__-recipe5.jpg

Give me some feedback once you have your set-up in place.

JulesNoise

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* Shelley 

                     Jules! Let me first say, as many, many others have already–you are a wonderful person to help all of us get rid of this nasty pest. Here’s my story: Two years ago, at the end of 2012, my husband came home and told me that one of his friends had bedbugs in his house and was getting the house sprayed. I thought at the time, “uh, oh. . .it might be only a matter of time before they get over here!” Sure enough, my husband continued to go over to his friend’s house (his friend was convinced that the spraying worked and he critters were gone) and starting at the end of *this* past summer, August 2013, I started noticing that I was getting bug bites. Given that it was summertime, and the bites were itchy, I just chalked it up to mosquitoes, but I was really concerned because I was getting bit on a regular basis, which had never happened before. My husband, however, was not getting bit. Anyway, I continued to experience bites all the way up into early November–it was at that point that I knew this had to be more than mosquitoes, because the weather was getting cold and I’ve never received mosquito bites that late in the year. So, I began to research about bed bugs, and sure enough, that’s what it was. We saw two of their droppings in the folds of our mattress, and we actually caught about 8 of them once we really looked around the mattress. We didn’t see very many at all, and we looked all over the box spring. Boy, was I freaked out–and I was still getting bites. So, I really started to look for ways to eradicate them and was very discouraged because I was reading how everything had to be thrown out and I had to pay big money to an exterminator. We even tried a spray that we bought at a hardware store (we used it frequently on the mattress and boxspring). AND THEN I FOUND YOU—THANK GOD!!!!!!!!! I read as much as I could from your websites and studied your YouTube videos. My husband and I went out and spent a total of $25 to get all of the suggested tools for the bedbug barrier and the traps and carefully followed all your instructions. LO AND BEHOLD–THE BITES STOPPED IMMEDIATELY!!!! And I have not been bitten since (it is now the end of January!)

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I do have a question: we never caught any bugs in the traps. I used the big two liter bottles, which did not fit under the bed, so I put the four of them next to each leg of the bed. I’m thinking I may need to switch up and use smaller traps. However, it’s been two months since I’ve been bitten. Do you think we still need traps? I used one set of traps for three weeks, and emptied them out, but haven’t replaced them yet. How much longer should we sleep on the plastic? Do you think those nasty bugs are dead yet?

ISN’T IT NICE TO SLEEP SOUNDLY WITHOUT WORRYING ABOUT BEDBUG BITES?

Thank you for sharing your story. For three months you were stuck with bedbugs, you even saw them coming and there was nothing you could do about it. If the insect is disgusting, the way they use it for marketing is even worse, the bedbug is a cash cow.

In your own words: “Boy, was I freaked out–and I was still getting bites. So, I really started to look for ways to eradicate them and was very discouraged because I was reading how everything had to be thrown out and I had to pay big money to an exterminator.” “Professionals”, they call themselves professionals and they do not even know how to catch a bug that has only one source of food. Bedbugs are the most vulerable insects because of that! Take their food away and they have nothing to feed on, bedbugs are not invincible and do die of starvation.  The undefeatable bedug! Give me a break, everybody squishes them as soon as they see them. Bedbugs are stupid and no match with someone who can think. Unfortunately, poison pushers are driven by greed and will never eradicate the bedbug.  All by yourself, you did better than any of them can do, when this is going to be over, there will not be a single bedbug left behind. Poison repels them (bedbugs are resistant to poison) and pushes them deep into the walls and to the neighbors and these so-called “professionals” thrive on that. Imagine, making money with bedbugs… by using a repellent on them and putting our health in danger.

I hate poison pushers just as much as I hate bedbugs. 

Isn’t this ironic, the right way to get rid of a parasite is to take their food away from them, right? What will happen to these guys when we will all get rid of bedbugs all by ourselves?

Your story is very typical, that’s exactly how a bedbug infestation starts from day one and that’s exactly how to stop bedbugs, by starving them to death.

Stop feeding the bedbug!

And you did  Shelley, excellent. You used your wits and it paid off. 

You lured them under an impenetrable shield and you ketp them from feeding,

and most important, you broke this cycle:

Shelley ___ “I do have a question: we never caught any bugs in the traps.” Traps are made to lure and catch bedbugs on the floor. Any and all bedbug anywhere in the room will come out of hiding driven by hunger. To bedbugs, the traps are a place to feed, it is a powerful lure that uses Heat and CO2 to attract bedbugs on the move. The CO2 traps are sentinels on the job 24/7, directly in the pathway bedbugs use to climb into the bed. The traps are monitors meant to catch bedbugs when they come out of hiding. Your traps never caught one? There were no bedbugs in the room. Here is what you had:

• A typical bedbug infestation starts with a single bedbug. You got yours in August of this year.
• The first weeks, you noticed a a rash and a swell. Being on the look out for bedbugs but without evidence, those seemingly harmless irritations being spaced apart, you prefered to think that it could be mosquitoes, a perfectly normal reaction.

Look at the graph again, those are the first stages of a bedbug infestation where only the [breakfast-dinner-lunch] bite of the adult female bedbug leave an itchy red swell about once a week while the first stage nymphs being small and hardly visible only leave a pinkish rash that does not last long. Up to the the fourth and fifth stage, your bed if a nursery. A very nice place to raise bedbugs and they do, that is why we call them bedbugs! All bedbugs from mother to hatchlings, and all the nymphs in between are in the bed and none of them are in the room. Your bed is a bedbug paradise where the lone single adult bedbug repeatedly lays her eggs after a triple bite full blood meal, while her eggs hatch into nearly transparent replicas of herself, having only to climb up to get fed, from their cozy little corner of the mattress. Bedbugs just do not want and will not leave the bed in the beginning of an infestation. Lucky you covered that single harborage before they spread out. Imagine, at the adult stage, the agressive males appear and attack anything in sight that is blood-filled, including their own mother, but unable to grab the tiniest ones. If there is a hell for bedbugs, that’s when it happens. It causes bedbugs of both genders and of age (except the young ones which are too small  too survive traumatic insemination) to flee and scatter out of the bed. I used the big two liter bottles, which did not fit under the bed, so I put the four of them next to each leg of the bed. I’m thinking I may need to switch up and use smaller traps. However, it’s been two months since I’ve been bitten. Do you think we still need traps? I used one set of traps for three weeks, and emptied them out, but haven’t replaced them yet. The traps work just as well  next to the legs of the bed as underneath it. It is only a matter of convenience  and to put them out of the way that we place them under the bed. If you did not catch bedbugs with the traps in the last two months, you can keep only two traps as monitors and using only half the yeast of the recipe to make them last twice as long as their normal full strenght use of 2-3 weeks. The traps will serve as sentinels  against any new bedbug  and will prevent any re-infestation. Keep the traps running for a few months, they are your defense against bedbugs even if you do not see any. Mine have been running for three and half years now and I never had any new bedbugs since then. I feel so safe with them on that I will probably keep them on forever.

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How much longer should we sleep on the plastic? Do you think those nasty bugs are dead yet? Not all bedbugs are dead yet. The younger ones die faster than the adults but the mother of all bedbugs might still be alive.  

It is a myth that bed bugs can live for a year without feeding, it can only occur in cold temperatures and never in heated human dwellings.  At temperature of 68F,without activity and feeding (dormant), they live about three months. Alvero Romaro, University of Kentucky performed experiments where colonies of bedbugs were placed in an unoccupied building at 68F and recorded their behavior with time lapse cameras. The bedbugs didn’t forage or feed and the study gave a normal mortality rate of 92 days (average)

At the 57th Annual Meeting of the Entomological Society of America in 2009, newer generations of pesticide-resistant bed bugs in Virginia were reported to survive only two months without feeding.

• Ninety-two days is an average, some bedbugs surviving longer than 92 days, and some other bedbugs less than 92.
• Those tests were done at 68°F. All insects are dependent on temperature. The warmer they are and the more active they become, and as the temperature cools down, they become slower and they hardly move.

Bedbugs are not any different and if those tests would have been made at temperatude others than 68°F, Alvero Romaro would have found different mortality rates. The warmer is is, the faster they die and vice-versa, the cooler it is the longer they last. That explains the two month span of the Entomological Society of America based on reports instead of controlled laboratory conditions.

• In a bed at our normal room temperatures of 70-80°F and in proximity of our body heat, dormant bedbugs do not last 92 days but 60-70 days at best and bedbugs that remain active (and that is most of them) last no more than 3-4 feeding cycle or 25-30 days. And of course the young ones die faster than the adults.

To completely get rid of bedbugs, a trap (and shield) must last longer than any bedbug can survive. So it is best to leave the shield on and the traps running for three months.

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THAT STOPS BEDBUGS FROM BEING ABLE TO FEED.

Bedbugs already in the bed will not go back down to the floor and towards the traps when they have direct access to you while you sleep. The traps must be between the bedbugs and yourself to catch them. What you need is a way to stop them from being able to reach you. You need a barrier, something physical that will keep bedbugs from biting, a bedbug shield.

• It is made with a long strip of plastic, about 2 feet high by 24 feet long, taped as a “skirt” to the sides to the sides of the mattress and hanging down all around the bed, and leaving a clearance of only one inch above the floor.

• Cover the mattress with a regular fabric contour sheet placed directly on the mattress and with its elastic sides over  this plastic “skirt”.

• Seal the edge of the contour sheet to the top of the plastic “skirt” with duct tape, and all around the mattress.

• That’s all it takes to make a bedbug shield.

The fabric contour sheet keeps bedbugs from being able to go through it and to reach us when we sleep.

• The plastic sides (the skirt) keeps the bedbugs from being able to go around it by blocking their passage laterally to the bed sheets hanging down when the bed is made or when we use it.

• Bedbugs can’t go up directly and bedbugs cannot go around it sideways.

• The only way for bedbugs to get out of it is by going back down to the floor and that is where we put the CO2 bedbug traps.

The Bedbug Shield ___ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U

All bedbugs are stopped and get stuck underneath the shield, where they will slowly die of starvation while you sleep soundly above the shield and without a single bite. That’s the first thing that happens when you use a shield, all bedbug bites stop at once. No more bites.

Then we place CO2 traps under the shield and behind each leg of the bed.

Bedbug Shield for a Wooden Bed

Bedbug Shield for a Crib

A crib could be a puzzle at first sight but it is not.  Baby mattresses usually are covered in a waterproof encasement. Those mattresses are easily cleared of bedbugs (if any) by taking them into the bath and spray the casing with rubbing alcohol. They also usually do not have a box spring, so it becomes easy to block any path bedbugs could use to get up onto the mattress with a sheet of plastic that will fit inside the frame of the crib and on top of the mattress support. Some cribs have a thin metal wire mesh assembly that we put the mattress on, others simply have wooden boards to put the mattress on. It is the frame of the crib that we can use to make a barrier that no bedbug can get through. Cut a piece of plastic to fit inside the frame and flat on the support boards, seal the plastic to the inside of the frame, leaving no hole bedbugs could get through. On the outside of the frame, fix (tape) a plastic skirt all around the crib and hanging down, this plastic skirt does not have to reach the floor as a shield on a bed does, it only need to be a few inches high. The reason that it can be shorter is that on a bed, the length of this skirt is there to keep bedbugs from reaching the bed sheets, and in a crib the sheets do not hang down. So a few inches is enough to stop bedbugs from being able to climb up any higher than this plastic skirt. The fitted plastic inside the frame and under the mattress and the plastic skirt on the outside make a shield for a crib and work the very same way as a bed shield.

Bedbug Shield

for a

Mattress on the Floor

Evanescentsoul1

What can I do if I sleep on a Japanese futon that is right on the floor? I cannot make the shield. Will the traps still work? How can I stop the bugs from feeding on me and go to the traps?

@__Evanescentsoul1__ The shield must be placed between the futon and the bedbugs, and bedbugs must not be able to get around it or across it. The shield must be impenetrable to bedbugs. A futon is nice to sleep on and you should be allowed to enjoy it without being scared of getting bedbug bites.

So we will isolate the futon from all and any bedbug with a sturdy plastic shield directly on the floor (thick enough to resist wear and tear). What we need to keep bedbugs from being able to climb on it. To do so, we must raise the edges of the plastic, all along the perimeter of the so that the edge will be too high and too difficult for bedbugs to climb and hang on to it. Bedbugs will always go underneath the plastic and will stay stuck underneath it, totally separated from you while you sleep on the futon above without any chance that a bedbug can reach you.

The size of the plastic shield should be at least 6-12 inches all around the futon. In a low bed situation, bedding and sheets always touch the floor and become a bridge bedbugs use to get to the person sleeping on the bed. By cutting the plastic larger than the futon, we allow sheets to slide off the bed and still get protected from bedbugs.

To turn that plastic sheet into a bedbug shield we raise the edges all around it. We need something to raise the edge by at least ¼” which is the length of an adult bedbug. If the edge of the plastic is raised by ¼”, the bedbug will not be able to reach it from the floor. If we use something slippery for bedbugs to raise the edge, the bedbug will not be able to use it to climb up, I use drinking straws because they are cheap, easy to get and slippery as hell for bedbugs. Straws can be squished and walked on without damage to the efficiency of the shield or to the person using the room. They are also low cost easily replaced if damaged. And if the straw is fixed (small pieces of double-sided tape) ¼” inside and under the edge, the edge protrudes and form a small canopy that bedbugs just can’t negotiate the 180° turn without falling on their back trying to walk upside down, even if they could get a grip on the plastic. To make the shield even more secure, the straws and the little canopy can be brushed with talcum powder and make it even more slippery.

With all the bedbugs drawn towards you at night and a shield that bedbugs slip under and get stuck underneath it instead of being able to bite you like when you do not have a shield. The shield stops all bedbug bites at once, because bedbugs cannot reach you anymore. The only thing left to do is to clear the futon of any and all bedbugs.

There are many ways to do that. Futon encasements, vacuuming and brushing, rubbing alcohol, heat if the futon fits in a machine or make a heating enclosure and cook them up manually (for tinkerers only). Dry ice also kills bedbugs and it is fun to do… take your pick, something that works for you.

Of course, you need CO2 bedbug traps to catch roaming bedbugs in the room. Two near your bed and maybe two more elsewhere in the room. Use traps made with tubing to bring CO2 into small 1 oz shot glasses that are perfect to be uses as bedbug pitfalls. They are small, hardly in the way and easy to maintain while the CO2 generator can be placed further away, close to a corner or a wall and also be out of the way. The ones in the room can be made the same way, but decorative, all you need is imagination.

That will proof your futon and your whole room against bedbugs. Use the futon shield and the CO2 traps for three months and there will not be a single bedbug still alive, some caught and suffocated in the CO2 of the small glasses, others squished under the shield (maybe you will do it on purpose if you see a bedbug through the shield…the advantage of a shield directly on the floor) while some others will die of starvation, being unable to feed since the day you put the shield on. And it all starts as soon as you put the shield on.

You will be bedbug free.

JulesNoise

LionelWitchieWardrob

Hi Bed Bug Master, I have a question for you if you would be kind enough to help me out. I am currently sleeping on a mattress, rather than a mattress raised on a bed frame. Should I get a bed frame so I can put those catchers on the bottom of the legs of the bed or should I get a plastic mattress cover? Thanks!

Hi, you want to be free of bedbugs? That’s easy, all you need is a shield to keep bedbugs from being able to reach and bite you. Bedbugs exist only because they can feed, when you take their food away from bedbugs, they wither away and die of starvation and that’s the end of the bedbugs. So, do yourself a favor and stop feeding bedbugs. Simple isn’t it?

The real question is how. Lots of people sleep on mattresses directly on the floor, it seems like an impossible task to keep bedbugs from getting easy access to the person sleeping on the mattress because there are so many ways bedbugs can get on to them. You only need a barrier that bedbugs cannot get through or around. If in a regular bed, this barrier goes between the sleeper and the bedbugs (make sense doesn’t it?), the same thing applies to a bed made only of a mattress on the floor. The difference is the height provided by a bed frame and/or boxspring. Since there are no such frame and box spring, this barrier goes either over the mattress or directly on the floor, under the mattress.

The barrier is a simple sheet of plastic (use heavy duty painter’s plastic or better yet, shower curtains taped together if need be so that it does not wear and tear when walking on it) placed directly on the floor with its sides and edges slightly raised up so that bedbugs will get underneath it when they will try to feed instead of on top where they can reach the sleeper and feed from its blood. It is the raised sides and edges that make all the difference. Bedbugs cannot jump or fly so they can only crawl on the floor and get under the raised sides of the plastic on the floor and once they are underneath the plastic, there is no way for them to get up on the mattress and get to you. The bedbug is defeated.

A regular mattress measures 39 inches by 75 inches for a single bed and 54 inches by 75 inches for a double bed. The sheet of plastic to be used as a barrier (shield) should be 51 inches by 87 inches for a single bed and 66 inches by 87 inches for a double bed. The reason why the sheet of plastic is larger than the mattress is to allow six inches all around the mattress on the floor to keep bedbugs from being able to climb up directly on the bed sheets that will touch the floor when the mattress is used. Without the height of a bed frame and box spring, bed sheets do touch the floor when we are sleeping. So the edges of the bed sheets will rest on that extra plastic all around the mattress and protect you from bedbugs using the bed sheets to get on to you.

You have a plain sheet of plastic directly on the floor with the mattress in the middle of it. What is needed now is to raise the edges so that bedbugs will be forced to crawl underneath it. Since bedbugs cannot jump, that height at the edge need not be higher than ¼ of an inch. Any means can be used to raise the plastic edges. You can use wood, cardboard, metal or plastic, it does not matter, but from my experience, simple drinking straws do it very nicely and are the best to raise the edges of the plastic. In making traps, I always try to use the least expensive and most available materials anybody can find  around us, drinking straws cost only 1.50$ for a box of a 100 straws and are very easy to install.

Get a narrow roll of double sided tape and make a rectangle one quarter inch from the edge of the plastic, then put the straws on the other sticky side of the double sided tape to keep them in place and taped to the underside of the edge of the plastic. The straw will create a height of about ¼ of an inch high. Bedbugs cannot climb on the plastic drinking straws and much less get a grip on the underside of the raised plastic edges, so they are not able to get up on the top side of the plastic.

There you have it, a bedbug shield for a mattress on the floor. Here is an example of such a shield that can also be used for a sleeping bag that also is used directly on a floor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHbjOE0lVF0

Next, we take care of the mattress itself. A mattress can be cleared out of bedbugs with 91% rubbing alcohol and a brush. Rubbing alcohol kills bedbug on contact, so spray it in the seams and folds on both sides of the mattress, using the brush to rub them off (this is better done over the plastic used to make the shield on the floor) and the mattress will be cleared out of bedbugs for immediate bedbug-free use. Another way to enclose all bedbugs in a mattress is to make your own mattress encasement, using two regular contour sheets, ( I buy contour sheets in second hand stores for only a few dollars) one on each side of the mattress and seal-taped together all around the sides with duct tape. It makes a totally enclosed “bag” that entomb any and all bedbugs that might be in it, those bedbugs will die of starvation within a few weeks.

With the raised edges plastic on the floor and the mattress cleared out of bedbugs (rubbing alcohol or contour sheets mattress encasement) you will now have full protection against any bedbug bites while sleeping (most bites are at night). The next step is to make CO2 bedbug traps to be placed around the bed and in other strategic places in the room. The traps need not be under the bed, close by works just as well as under the bed. The CO2 traps will catch bedbugs that might be hiding anywhere in the room and that will go towards the bed to try to get a blood meal in vain, they mistake the CO2 from the traps for the CO2 from our breath and end up into small glass pitfalls that they cannot get out of, those bedbugs die of suffocation within 12-24 hours after falling in the pitfalls.

There you have it, the most efficient and least expensive bedbug trap in the world. You now will be able to sleep without getting a single bite and not worry about bedbugs anymore.

An additional measure to ensure that bedbugs cannot get anywhere in the room other than on the floor where the traps are is to make bedbug barriers out of scotch tape brushed with talcum powder. Scotch tape by itself is enough to keep bedbugs from being able to climb up anywhere you put those scotch and talcum barriers. It is very simple, a band of scotch tape make bedbug lose their grip and make fall down to the floor. The scotch tape should be applied to vertical surfaces (furniture legs, at the bottom of the walls just above the baseboard, around light switches, electrical outlets, besides trims of windows and doors and anywhere you do not want bedbugs to be able to go into), and brushed with talcum powder. It limits the capacity of bedbugs to take over the entire room, keeping them down and with only the traps to go to.

From being the best bedbug trap ever, your room now becomes bedbug- proof and you will never be bothered by bedbugs again. Even the time it takes to eliminate the bedbugs you presently have will not be such a pain, you might occasionally see a desperate bedbug once in a while but they will be harmless not being able to feed (bite) anymore, it will last only for a few weeks, the time it takes for bedbugs to die of starvation.

A simple solution that needs a long reply, be patient, the results are worth it. It would be nice if you had a camera and take some pictures of your set up as you are doing it. I could use them as a page on my website to make a real life demonstration how to make a shield for other people like you who use only a mattress to sleep and become bedbug free. Helping you will help others and that’s the satisfaction of this Bed Bug Master. (Truth is, I’m just a guy like you who happened to got rid of his bedbugs by making and using CO2 bedbug traps and a shield)

Make your own shield and traps, it eliminates bedbug right down to the last one and in a few weeks you will be able to say: “I’m bedbug free!”

With my respect

JulesNoise

Bedbug Shield

for

Bunk beds

Bunk Beds are special, practical and compact, they double the sleeping space occupancy of a room, allowing small families to happily ‘bunk” the new little ones, home sweet home. Bunk beds are great and the newer models also have style, it is a plus.

In the dark world of bedbugs, bunk beds are the best place to feed. Easy access from the floor and up into the frame, many pathways bedbug can and do use to get to the two sleeping persons in both bed. Doubling the power of attraction by the heat of two bodies and the CO2 of both their respiration. Bunk beds can be bedbug heaven.

So bunk beds are not so great after all? No, bunk beds are excellent for what they have been designed for, they simply have not been designed with bedbugs in mind. They are easy for bedbugs to climb into and that’s their weakness. That can be easily fixed with inexpensive (scotch tape and talcum powder) bedbug barriers.

It is easy to understand that a bedbug shield (a sheet of plastic covering a bed) will and does stop bedbugs from being able to reach you and bite you. It is easy to make with a regular bed, especially if it has no headboard and footboard, all you need is to drape the plastic over the mattress and the shield is done. But it is not so easy with bunk beds, a challenge needing lots of patience and tinkering skills. So for bunk beds, it is better to use a shield for each mattress and make the frame of the bunk bed impervious to bedbugs inside out.

We will start with that, how do we make the frame of a bunk bed impervious to bedbugs? Well, bedbugs are climbers, all we need to do is to stop and keep them from climbing. So we will place bedbug barriers in strategic places in and around the bunk bed so that bedbugs will not be able to climb up in then anywhere. Any bedbug trying to climb in the frame will always lose their grip on the barrier and fall back down trying in vain to climb again and again. Bedbugs are stuck below a bedbug barrier.

What is a bedbug barrier? It is something that bedbug cannot get across or around; it is very close to the description of a bedbug shield. It is a way to control where bedbugs can go or not. How about bedbug traffic control? The best bedbug barrier in the world is made with a simple band of scotch tape with its shiny side brushed with talcum powder. Bedbugs simply cannot hook or grip in talcum covered scotch tape (of course the surface of the tape must be vertical). Bedbug barriers are so simple and so inexpensive, yet they stop any and all bedbugs from being able to reach any high place where you do not want bedbugs to go to or into.

Bedbug-proofing a Bunk Bed

[click on images for larger views]

Take out the mattresses and the bedding off the bunk bed. The bedding can be put in plastic bags until you put it in the dryer to kill all and any bedbug that might be in it (high heat for 20-25 minutes). Put the mattresses on a large sheet of plastic on the floor to clear them out of any bedbugs and/or eggs that might be in them (in the mattress means in the seams and exterior folds since bedbugs can not chew and make holes in fabric, all bedbugs are on the exterior sides of a mattress and can easily be brushed away using rubbing alcohol to kill them. (The plastic on the floor serves to collect debris and live bedbugs trying to flee).

Once the mattresses and bedding have been taken care of, it is time to clear out and kill any bedbug that might be in the bunk bed frame itself. Again we use rubbing alcohol to do it. As a precaution, use the same large sheet of plastic on the floor to collect debris, and place the empty bunk bed on it. Rubbing alcohol (70% or more) kills bedbugs on contact so you have to bring the rubbing alcohol to the bedbugs hiding in corners, interstices and joints to kill them. Lots of people use spray bottles to kill bedbugs and sometimes fail. Use a brush instead, it is much more effective to put alcohol precisely in the tight  spaces bedbugs hide in. It is also more positive that alcohol went deep into the cracks. Another advantage of a brush over spray is that a brush will not make as much fumes as spray does. There is no need to cover flat surfaces like spray does and where bedbugs obviously are not. A brush also has the advantage to follow what has been done or not. Lastly, using a brush takes much less alcohol than spray does.

• Note: There is an alternative to the use of rubbing alcohol to kill and clear bedbugs out of any item or article. Dry ice is a bedbug killer. Used inside a plastic bag, dry ice kills bedbugs within hours by CO2 poisoning. The whole bunk bed (including the mattresses and bedding) could be placed inside a large plastic sheet and closed to form a bag. A few pounds of dry ice placed in it will make the inside of the plastic bag lethal for bedbugs with pure CO2 and the bed can be used the next day completely cleared of bedbugs. One pound of dry ice fills a space of 2’x2’x2′ with CO2. It is better to use too much dry ice than too little.

Then, when the frame of the bunk bed has been cleaned out of bedbugs, you might want to add further protection with a thin coat of wax on the whole frame, sealing every place where there is a possibility a bedbug could use to hide.

Now that the mattresses and the bunk bed frame are absolutely clear of bedbugs, we can put the bedbug shield in place, on top of the support boards and directly under the mattress and we add bedbug barriers to keep any bedbugs from being able to climb back into the bunk bed. The shield is a sheet of plastic on top of the support boards and directly underneath the mattress. The sheet of plastic must be taped to the inside of the frame and sealed, leaving no opening for the passage of bedbugs. That way, no bedbug will be able to go up in the frame and to the mattress directly.

The bedbug barriers will keep bedbugs from being able to climb up on the exterior surfaces of the bunk bed. Bedbugs cannot walk up vertically on talcum covered plastic (scotch tape). Any bedbug trying to escape the plastic underneath the mattress will meet a slick and slippery bedbug barrier on the outside of the frame and fall down to the ground where the CO2 bedbug traps are. The band of scotch tape that makes the barrier should be as low as possible on the exterior of the bed frame, ideally even with the outside bottom corner of the boards that make the frame, and all the way around the posts to completely encircle the bunk bed with a full bedbug barrier 1/2″ high by over 20’0″ long. Once it is in place, brush the shiny side of the scotch tape with talcum powder.

Once you will be satisfied of your work, re-assemble the bunk bed in place and use the bedding from the dryer to make the bed. Elevate the whole bunk bed by 1/2″ using floor protectors to do it. You will find these floor protectors in a local hardware store. Ask for floor protectors at least 1/2″ high and made out of polished metal, with or without a felt tip, and of course will fit under the posts of the bunk bed. The idea is to make a space underneath the bunk bed with only the floor protectors that bedbugs can try to climb on and fail since polished metal is as impossible to climb on as glass is.

Keep a space of at least 1/2″ between the bunk bed and any wall. Bedbugs can’t fly or jump, so that small gap is enough to keep bedbugs from being able to cross over from the walls and on to the bunk bed. (I put spacers between the posts of a bed and the walls to maintain that distance, so the bed dos not slide back against the walls by use)

The bunk bed can be used right away without any bedbugs in it and no possibility of bedbugs returning even if there could be other bedbugs somewhere else in the room. The CO2 bedbug traps on the floor, one at each corner of the bed will take care of those other bedbugs, catching them every time they will try (in vain) to get in the bed.

I suggest that you get someone to help you do this. You will appreciate the extra hands to move the bunk bed and get access to difficult underneath parts (one of the favorite places bedbugs like to hide). Two people can cover the whole bed better than somebody alone and you will give them a great service by showing them how to deal with bedbugs if they ever have any.

I also suggest that you look around in the room and use the same bedbug barriers (scotch tape and talcum powder) to keep bedbugs from being able to climb up on the walls, in the adjacent furniture, light switches, electrical outlets, picture frames, headboards (if you have one), closets, drawers… etc. Keep bedbugs down to the floor where the traps will attract and catch foraging bedbugs when they come out of hiding.

The bedbug shield on the bed, the CO2 bedbug traps on the floor and the bedbug barriers in the room is the ultimate combination to get rid of bedbugs completely and permanently. How do we get rid of bedbugs for good? We starve them to death while we sleep soundly without a bite.

Here is the reason why bedbug barriers work: 

__________ Or on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5sFz9jC-nQ

The best part of a do it yourself method is that if bedbugs ever return, you will eliminate them as fast as they get in. The CO2 Bedbug Trap will protect you for life, you will never be bothered by bedbugs again.

Pass it on.

JulesNoise

MissElectricCompany

@__MissElectricCompany__Your talent is worth $1000, all you need is information. How to deal and defeat bedbugs with simple inexpensive means that always give 100% results.

Bedbugs are depicted as being undefeatable; nothing could be so far from the truth. Bedbugs are extremely vulnerable insects because they have only one source of food and if you take it away from them, they can only wither and die of starvation. And it is easy to control bedbugs with slippery barriers that keep bedbug from being able to climb up into our beds, couches, furniture, belongings, walls, ceiling or anywhere else in the room. The most effective bedbug barriers are made with simple scotch tape brushed with talcum powder.

And we can stop them from being able to feed with equally simple and inexpensive measures like a shield over the bed or couch which are the two principal places where bedbugs are, (70% in the bed and 23% in the couch). The principle is also very simple, as an example, if you get mosquito bites what would you do? To keep mosquitoes from being able to get to us and bite, we simply put screens in the windows and it stops all mosquito bites. It is so obvious that nobody questions it because it works every time. It is the same thing with bedbugs; all we need to do is to put a physical barrier between the bedbugs and ourselves. Since bedbugs are in the bed and couch, that physical barrier goes on the bed and couch and it stops all bedbug bites.

How do you make such a bedbug barrier? That is where a little knowledge of the bedbug comes in. Bedbugs are climbers with filament pincer hooks at the end of their legs. They are excellent climbers on any surface that gives them a grip, like wood, paper, fabric, clothes and even latex paint. But like any climber, bedbugs have a hard time climbing on smooth vertical surfaces like polished metal, glass, porcelain or any other hard surface that offers little or no grip for their hooks. And bedbugs cannot dig or chew their way through materials; they can only hide in existing cracks and crevices or in corners and underside of furniture parts, always away from the light.

So with that knowledge, we can make a barrier that will stop all bedbugs. The simplest and easiest barrier that anyone can make is a large sheet of plastic simply draped over the bed or couch with its sides hanging down and cut a small space above the floor. This works because bedbugs cannot walk through plastic, nor can they hang on to the smooth vertical sides of the plastic. The edge of the hanging plastic sides is particularly impossible for bedbugs to get across as their body cannot negotiate the 180 degree turn from the inner side of the plastic to the outer side, they always lose their grip and fall down to the floor. A bed or couch with a simple plastic sheet loosely draped over it always stops all bedbugs as long as its sides are hanging down and are not touching the floor. It can be done by anyone in only a few minutes.

That simple sheet of plastic does stop bedbugs from being able to bite and feed, it can and does eliminate any bedbug infestation. It is a quick fix solution but it can be very slippery and slip off and then you lose all your bedbug protection. It can also be sweaty and uncomfortable as plastic does not breathe. So to fix these two problems, we can fit the shield (barrier) to the bed or couch using fabric on the top side where we sit or rest, and this fabric cover will stay in place and will be permeable and comfortable. To keep bedbugs from being able to cross over from the underside to the topside since bedbugs easily crawl and climb on fabric, we add a band or strip of plastic to the hanging sides of this fabric cover. As described above, when bedbugs meet this vertical plastic, they cannot hang on anymore; lose their grip and fall down to the floor. Bedbugs cannot walk through fabric nor can they bite through fabric, they are completely stuck and trapped underneath the fabric cover without ever being able to feed. The plastic sides keeps them from being able to get to the top side.

This is exactly the same design that one of my friends uses to make commercial bedbug shields as I mentioned in an earlier message, the “Bed Sized Bed Bug Trap” that you can find with Google. His bedbug shield uses double sided tape instead of a plastic band at the edges of the fabric cover only because he wanted to make his own different than mine. If you did not look at it, do it now and you will see how easy it is to make a bedbug shield. With your talent you can do the same, first for yourself and maybe for others later, helping people who cannot do it for themselves, the elderly, the physically handicapped or anybody else stuck with the bedbug nightmare. Your services as a seamstress could be invaluable in the bedbug war and you could get paid for it.

With only a shield on the bed or couch, you can stop and eliminate bedbugs right down to the last one, but if you want to make the shield faster and even more efficient, make and place CO2 bedbug traps on the floor and under the shield. If the shield stops all and every bedbugs already in the bed or couch, the CO2 bedbug trap catches and eliminate bedbugs which are anywhere else in the room by making them come out of hiding by drawing them towards the bed where they are lured into small glass pitfalls that they cannot get out of. The combination of the shield and the traps is deadly for bedbugs, the shield blocks them and make them die of starvation and the traps catch them through their hunger when they come out of hiding. Adios bedbugs, they all end up dead.

Lastly, to make any place bedbug proof, all you need are bedbug barriers in the form of bands of scotch tape on the legs of the bed, couch, furniture and also above the baseboards of the walls to keep bedbugs from being able to go anywhere other than on the floor where the CO2 traps are and that will catch them because they have then nowhere else to go.

Sorry about the long explanation but I do not know of any other way to explain the bedbug shield and traps. My videos are sometimes confusing and make the shield and traps look like a lot of work but you will find out that it is not, only a few hours once and it solves the bedbug problem forever.

I am not a professional, nor do I do this for money. I am only a simple man with a computer trying to show and tell how I got rid of bedbugs and it works, in the last year I estimate over 30 000 people have used the trap and are now bedbug free. I want more, the shield and traps do not only eliminate bedbugs but also eliminate the exterminator.

If you wish, keep me informed of your progress, if you have any difficulties or need more information, do not hesitate to contact me because I want you to succeed and become bedbug free.

Best regards

JulesNoise

I’m killing the Bed Bugs    FINALLY!!!