THE SHIELD IS AN IMPENETRABLE BARRIER
THAT STOPS BEDBUGS FROM BEING ABLE TO FEED.
Bedbugs already in the bed will not go back down to the floor and towards the traps when they have direct access to you while you sleep. The traps must be between the bedbugs and yourself to catch them. What you need is a way to stop them from being able to reach you. You need a barrier, something physical that will keep bedbugs from biting, a bedbug shield.
- It is made with a long strip of plastic, about 2 feet high by 24 feet long, taped as a “skirt” to the sides to the sides of the mattress and hanging down all around the bed, and leaving a clearance of only one inch above the floor.
- Cover the mattress with a regular fabric contour sheet placed directly on the mattress and with its elastic sides over this plastic “skirt”.
- Seal the edge of the contour sheet to the top of the plastic “skirt” with duct tape, and all around the mattress.
- That’s all it takes to make a bedbug shield.
The fabric contour sheet keeps bedbugs from being able to go through it and to reach us when we sleep.
- The plastic sides (the skirt) keeps the bedbugs from being able to go around it by blocking their passage laterally to the bed sheets hanging down when the bed is made or when we use it.
- Bedbugs can’t go up directly and bedbugs cannot go around it sideways.
- The only way for bedbugs to get out of it is by going back down to the floor and that is where we put the CO2 bedbug traps.
The Bedbug Shield ___ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U
All bedbugs are stopped and get stuck underneath the shield, where they will slowly die of starvation while you sleep soundly above the shield and without a single bite. That’s the first thing that happens when you use a shield, all bedbug bites stop at once. No more bites.
Then we place CO2 traps under the shield and behind each leg of the bed.
Bedbug Shield for a Wooden Bed
Bedbug Shield for a Crib
A crib could be a puzzle at first sight but it is not. Baby mattresses usually are covered in a waterproof encasement. Those mattresses are easily cleared of bedbugs (if any) by taking them into the bath and spray the casing with rubbing alcohol. They also usually do not have a box spring, so it becomes easy to block any path bedbugs could use to get up onto the mattress with a sheet of plastic that will fit inside the frame of the crib and on top of the mattress support. Some cribs have a thin metal wire mesh assembly that we put the mattress on, others simply have wooden boards to put the mattress on. It is the frame of the crib that we can use to make a barrier that no bedbug can get through. Cut a piece of plastic to fit inside the frame and flat on the support boards, seal the plastic to the inside of the frame, leaving no hole bedbugs could get through. On the outside of the frame, fix (tape) a plastic skirt all around the crib and hanging down, this plastic skirt does not have to reach the floor as a shield on a bed does, it only need to be a few inches high. The reason that it can be shorter is that on a bed, the length of this skirt is there to keep bedbugs from reaching the bed sheets, and in a crib the sheets do not hang down. So a few inches is enough to stop bedbugs from being able to climb up any higher than this plastic skirt. The fitted plastic inside the frame and under the mattress and the plastic skirt on the outside make a shield for a crib and work the very same way as a bed shield.
Bedbug Shield
for a
Mattress on the Floor
Evanescentsoul1
What can I do if I sleep on a Japanese futon that is right on the floor? I cannot make the shield. Will the traps still work? How can I stop the bugs from feeding on me and go to the traps?
@__Evanescentsoul1__ The shield must be placed between the futon and the bedbugs, and bedbugs must not be able to get around it or across it. The shield must be impenetrable to bedbugs. A futon is nice to sleep on and you should be allowed to enjoy it without being scared of getting bedbug bites.
So we will isolate the futon from all and any bedbug with a sturdy plastic shield directly on the floor (thick enough to resist wear and tear). What we need to keep bedbugs from being able to climb on it. To do so, we must raise the edges of the plastic, all along the perimeter of the so that the edge will be too high and too difficult for bedbugs to climb and hang on to it. Bedbugs will always go underneath the plastic and will stay stuck underneath it, totally separated from you while you sleep on the futon above without any chance that a bedbug can reach you.
The size of the plastic shield should be at least 6-12 inches all around the futon. In a low bed situation, bedding and sheets always touch the floor and become a bridge bedbugs use to get to the person sleeping on the bed. By cutting the plastic larger than the futon, we allow sheets to slide off the bed and still get protected from bedbugs.
To turn that plastic sheet into a bedbug shield we raise the edges all around it. We need something to raise the edge by at least ¼” which is the length of an adult bedbug. If the edge of the plastic is raised by ¼”, the bedbug will not be able to reach it from the floor. If we use something slippery for bedbugs to raise the edge, the bedbug will not be able to use it to climb up, I use drinking straws because they are cheap, easy to get and slippery as hell for bedbugs. Straws can be squished and walked on without damage to the efficiency of the shield or to the person using the room. They are also low cost easily replaced if damaged. And if the straw is fixed (small pieces of double-sided tape) ¼” inside and under the edge, the edge protrudes and form a small canopy that bedbugs just can’t negotiate the 180° turn without falling on their back trying to walk upside down, even if they could get a grip on the plastic. To make the shield even more secure, the straws and the little canopy can be brushed with talcum powder and make it even more slippery.
With all the bedbugs drawn towards you at night and a shield that bedbugs slip under and get stuck underneath it instead of being able to bite you like when you do not have a shield. The shield stops all bedbug bites at once, because bedbugs cannot reach you anymore. The only thing left to do is to clear the futon of any and all bedbugs.
There are many ways to do that. Futon encasements, vacuuming and brushing, rubbing alcohol, heat if the futon fits in a machine or make a heating enclosure and cook them up manually (for tinkerers only). Dry ice also kills bedbugs and it is fun to do… take your pick, something that works for you.
Of course, you need CO2 bedbug traps to catch roaming bedbugs in the room. Two near your bed and maybe two more elsewhere in the room. Use traps made with tubing to bring CO2 into small 1 oz shot glasses that are perfect to be uses as bedbug pitfalls. They are small, hardly in the way and easy to maintain while the CO2 generator can be placed further away, close to a corner or a wall and also be out of the way. The ones in the room can be made the same way, but decorative, all you need is imagination.
That will proof your futon and your whole room against bedbugs. Use the futon shield and the CO2 traps for three months and there will not be a single bedbug still alive, some caught and suffocated in the CO2 of the small glasses, others squished under the shield (maybe you will do it on purpose if you see a bedbug through the shield…the advantage of a shield directly on the floor) while some others will die of starvation, being unable to feed since the day you put the shield on. And it all starts as soon as you put the shield on.
You will be bedbug free.
JulesNoise
LionelWitchieWardrob
Hi Bed Bug Master, I have a question for you if you would be kind enough to help me out. I am currently sleeping on a mattress, rather than a mattress raised on a bed frame. Should I get a bed frame so I can put those catchers on the bottom of the legs of the bed or should I get a plastic mattress cover? Thanks!
Hi, you want to be free of bedbugs? That’s easy, all you need is a shield to keep bedbugs from being able to reach and bite you. Bedbugs exist only because they can feed, when you take their food away from bedbugs, they wither away and die of starvation and that’s the end of the bedbugs. So, do yourself a favor and stop feeding bedbugs. Simple isn’t it?
The real question is how. Lots of people sleep on mattresses directly on the floor, it seems like an impossible task to keep bedbugs from getting easy access to the person sleeping on the mattress because there are so many ways bedbugs can get on to them. You only need a barrier that bedbugs cannot get through or around. If in a regular bed, this barrier goes between the sleeper and the bedbugs (make sense doesn’t it?), the same thing applies to a bed made only of a mattress on the floor. The difference is the height provided by a bed frame and/or boxspring. Since there are no such frame and box spring, this barrier goes either over the mattress or directly on the floor, under the mattress.
The barrier is a simple sheet of plastic (use heavy duty painter’s plastic or better yet, shower curtains taped together if need be so that it does not wear and tear when walking on it) placed directly on the floor with its sides and edges slightly raised up so that bedbugs will get underneath it when they will try to feed instead of on top where they can reach the sleeper and feed from its blood. It is the raised sides and edges that make all the difference. Bedbugs cannot jump or fly so they can only crawl on the floor and get under the raised sides of the plastic on the floor and once they are underneath the plastic, there is no way for them to get up on the mattress and get to you. The bedbug is defeated.
A regular mattress measures 39 inches by 75 inches for a single bed and 54 inches by 75 inches for a double bed. The sheet of plastic to be used as a barrier (shield) should be 51 inches by 87 inches for a single bed and 66 inches by 87 inches for a double bed. The reason why the sheet of plastic is larger than the mattress is to allow six inches all around the mattress on the floor to keep bedbugs from being able to climb up directly on the bed sheets that will touch the floor when the mattress is used. Without the height of a bed frame and box spring, bed sheets do touch the floor when we are sleeping. So the edges of the bed sheets will rest on that extra plastic all around the mattress and protect you from bedbugs using the bed sheets to get on to you.
You have a plain sheet of plastic directly on the floor with the mattress in the middle of it. What is needed now is to raise the edges so that bedbugs will be forced to crawl underneath it. Since bedbugs cannot jump, that height at the edge need not be higher than ¼ of an inch. Any means can be used to raise the plastic edges. You can use wood, cardboard, metal or plastic, it does not matter, but from my experience, simple drinking straws do it very nicely and are the best to raise the edges of the plastic. In making traps, I always try to use the least expensive and most available materials anybody can find around us, drinking straws cost only 1.50$ for a box of a 100 straws and are very easy to install.
Get a narrow roll of double sided tape and make a rectangle one quarter inch from the edge of the plastic, then put the straws on the other sticky side of the double sided tape to keep them in place and taped to the underside of the edge of the plastic. The straw will create a height of about ¼ of an inch high. Bedbugs cannot climb on the plastic drinking straws and much less get a grip on the underside of the raised plastic edges, so they are not able to get up on the top side of the plastic.
There you have it, a bedbug shield for a mattress on the floor. Here is an example of such a shield that can also be used for a sleeping bag that also is used directly on a floor. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHbjOE0lVF0
Next, we take care of the mattress itself. A mattress can be cleared out of bedbugs with 91% rubbing alcohol and a brush. Rubbing alcohol kills bedbug on contact, so spray it in the seams and folds on both sides of the mattress, using the brush to rub them off (this is better done over the plastic used to make the shield on the floor) and the mattress will be cleared out of bedbugs for immediate bedbug-free use. Another way to enclose all bedbugs in a mattress is to make your own mattress encasement, using two regular contour sheets, ( I buy contour sheets in second hand stores for only a few dollars) one on each side of the mattress and seal-taped together all around the sides with duct tape. It makes a totally enclosed “bag” that entomb any and all bedbugs that might be in it, those bedbugs will die of starvation within a few weeks.
With the raised edges plastic on the floor and the mattress cleared out of bedbugs (rubbing alcohol or contour sheets mattress encasement) you will now have full protection against any bedbug bites while sleeping (most bites are at night). The next step is to make CO2 bedbug traps to be placed around the bed and in other strategic places in the room. The traps need not be under the bed, close by works just as well as under the bed. The CO2 traps will catch bedbugs that might be hiding anywhere in the room and that will go towards the bed to try to get a blood meal in vain, they mistake the CO2 from the traps for the CO2 from our breath and end up into small glass pitfalls that they cannot get out of, those bedbugs die of suffocation within 12-24 hours after falling in the pitfalls.
There you have it, the most efficient and least expensive bedbug trap in the world. You now will be able to sleep without getting a single bite and not worry about bedbugs anymore.
An additional measure to ensure that bedbugs cannot get anywhere in the room other than on the floor where the traps are is to make bedbug barriers out of scotch tape brushed with talcum powder. Scotch tape by itself is enough to keep bedbugs from being able to climb up anywhere you put those scotch and talcum barriers. It is very simple, a band of scotch tape make bedbug lose their grip and make fall down to the floor. The scotch tape should be applied to vertical surfaces (furniture legs, at the bottom of the walls just above the baseboard, around light switches, electrical outlets, besides trims of windows and doors and anywhere you do not want bedbugs to be able to go into), and brushed with talcum powder. It limits the capacity of bedbugs to take over the entire room, keeping them down and with only the traps to go to.
From being the best bedbug trap ever, your room now becomes bedbug- proof and you will never be bothered by bedbugs again. Even the time it takes to eliminate the bedbugs you presently have will not be such a pain, you might occasionally see a desperate bedbug once in a while but they will be harmless not being able to feed (bite) anymore, it will last only for a few weeks, the time it takes for bedbugs to die of starvation.
A simple solution that needs a long reply, be patient, the results are worth it. It would be nice if you had a camera and take some pictures of your set up as you are doing it. I could use them as a page on my website to make a real life demonstration how to make a shield for other people like you who use only a mattress to sleep and become bedbug free. Helping you will help others and that’s the satisfaction of this Bed Bug Master. (Truth is, I’m just a guy like you who happened to got rid of his bedbugs by making and using CO2 bedbug traps and a shield)
Make your own shield and traps, it eliminates bedbug right down to the last one and in a few weeks you will be able to say: “I’m bedbug free!”
With my respect
JulesNoise
Bedbug Shield
for
Bunk beds
Bunk Beds are special, practical and compact, they double the sleeping space occupancy of a room, allowing small families to happily ‘bunk” the new little ones, home sweet home. Bunk beds are great and the newer models also have style, it is a plus.
In the dark world of bedbugs, bunk beds are the best place to feed. Easy access from the floor and up into the frame, many pathways bedbug can and do use to get to the two sleeping persons in both bed. Doubling the power of attraction by the heat of two bodies and the CO2 of both their respiration. Bunk beds can be bedbug heaven.
So bunk beds are not so great after all? No, bunk beds are excellent for what they have been designed for, they simply have not been designed with bedbugs in mind. They are easy for bedbugs to climb into and that’s their weakness. That can be easily fixed with inexpensive (scotch tape and talcum powder) bedbug barriers.
It is easy to understand that a bedbug shield (a sheet of plastic covering a bed) will and does stop bedbugs from being able to reach you and bite you. It is easy to make with a regular bed, especially if it has no headboard and footboard, all you need is to drape the plastic over the mattress and the shield is done. But it is not so easy with bunk beds, a challenge needing lots of patience and tinkering skills. So for bunk beds, it is better to use a shield for each mattress and make the frame of the bunk bed impervious to bedbugs inside out.
We will start with that, how do we make the frame of a bunk bed impervious to bedbugs? Well, bedbugs are climbers, all we need to do is to stop and keep them from climbing. So we will place bedbug barriers in strategic places in and around the bunk bed so that bedbugs will not be able to climb up in then anywhere. Any bedbug trying to climb in the frame will always lose their grip on the barrier and fall back down trying in vain to climb again and again. Bedbugs are stuck below a bedbug barrier.
What is a bedbug barrier? It is something that bedbug cannot get across or around; it is very close to the description of a bedbug shield. It is a way to control where bedbugs can go or not. How about bedbug traffic control? The best bedbug barrier in the world is made with a simple band of scotch tape with its shiny side brushed with talcum powder. Bedbugs simply cannot hook or grip in talcum covered scotch tape (of course the surface of the tape must be vertical). Bedbug barriers are so simple and so inexpensive, yet they stop any and all bedbugs from being able to reach any high place where you do not want bedbugs to go to or into.
Bedbug-proofing a Bunk Bed
[click on images for larger views]
Take out the mattresses and the bedding off the bunk bed. The bedding can be put in plastic bags until you put it in the dryer to kill all and any bedbug that might be in it (high heat for 20-25 minutes). Put the mattresses on a large sheet of plastic on the floor to clear them out of any bedbugs and/or eggs that might be in them (in the mattress means in the seams and exterior folds since bedbugs can not chew and make holes in fabric, all bedbugs are on the exterior sides of a mattress and can easily be brushed away using rubbing alcohol to kill them. (The plastic on the floor serves to collect debris and live bedbugs trying to flee).
Once the mattresses and bedding have been taken care of, it is time to clear out and kill any bedbug that might be in the bunk bed frame itself. Again we use rubbing alcohol to do it. As a precaution, use the same large sheet of plastic on the floor to collect debris, and place the empty bunk bed on it. Rubbing alcohol (70% or more) kills bedbugs on contact so you have to bring the rubbing alcohol to the bedbugs hiding in corners, interstices and joints to kill them. Lots of people use spray bottles to kill bedbugs and sometimes fail. Use a brush instead, it is much more effective to put alcohol precisely in the tight spaces bedbugs hide in. It is also more positive that alcohol went deep into the cracks. Another advantage of a brush over spray is that a brush will not make as much fumes as spray does. There is no need to cover flat surfaces like spray does and where bedbugs obviously are not. A brush also has the advantage to follow what has been done or not. Lastly, using a brush takes much less alcohol than spray does.
- Note: There is an alternative to the use of rubbing alcohol to kill and clear bedbugs out of any item or article. Dry ice is a bedbug killer. Used inside a plastic bag, dry ice kills bedbugs within hours by CO2 poisoning. The whole bunk bed (including the mattresses and bedding) could be placed inside a large plastic sheet and closed to form a bag. A few pounds of dry ice placed in it will make the inside of the plastic bag lethal for bedbugs with pure CO2 and the bed can be used the next day completely cleared of bedbugs. One pound of dry ice fills a space of 2’x2’x2′ with CO2. It is better to use too much dry ice than too little.
Then, when the frame of the bunk bed has been cleaned out of bedbugs, you might want to add further protection with a thin coat of wax on the whole frame, sealing every place where there is a possibility a bedbug could use to hide.
Now that the mattresses and the bunk bed frame are absolutely clear of bedbugs, we can put the bedbug shield in place, on top of the support boards and directly under the mattress and we add bedbug barriers to keep any bedbugs from being able to climb back into the bunk bed. The shield is a sheet of plastic on top of the support boards and directly underneath the mattress. The sheet of plastic must be taped to the inside of the frame and sealed, leaving no opening for the passage of bedbugs. That way, no bedbug will be able to go up in the frame and to the mattress directly.
The bedbug barriers will keep bedbugs from being able to climb up on the exterior surfaces of the bunk bed. Bedbugs cannot walk up vertically on talcum covered plastic (scotch tape). Any bedbug trying to escape the plastic underneath the mattress will meet a slick and slippery bedbug barrier on the outside of the frame and fall down to the ground where the CO2 bedbug traps are. The band of scotch tape that makes the barrier should be as low as possible on the exterior of the bed frame, ideally even with the outside bottom corner of the boards that make the frame, and all the way around the posts to completely encircle the bunk bed with a full bedbug barrier 1/2″ high by over 20’0″ long. Once it is in place, brush the shiny side of the scotch tape with talcum powder.
Once you will be satisfied of your work, re-assemble the bunk bed in place and use the bedding from the dryer to make the bed. Elevate the whole bunk bed by 1/2″ using floor protectors to do it. You will find these floor protectors in a local hardware store. Ask for floor protectors at least 1/2″ high and made out of polished metal, with or without a felt tip, and of course will fit under the posts of the bunk bed. The idea is to make a space underneath the bunk bed with only the floor protectors that bedbugs can try to climb on and fail since polished metal is as impossible to climb on as glass is.
Keep a space of at least 1/2″ between the bunk bed and any wall. Bedbugs can’t fly or jump, so that small gap is enough to keep bedbugs from being able to cross over from the walls and on to the bunk bed. (I put spacers between the posts of a bed and the walls to maintain that distance, so the bed dos not slide back against the walls by use)
The bunk bed can be used right away without any bedbugs in it and no possibility of bedbugs returning even if there could be other bedbugs somewhere else in the room. The CO2 bedbug traps on the floor, one at each corner of the bed will take care of those other bedbugs, catching them every time they will try (in vain) to get in the bed.
I suggest that you get someone to help you do this. You will appreciate the extra hands to move the bunk bed and get access to difficult underneath parts (one of the favorite places bedbugs like to hide). Two people can cover the whole bed better than somebody alone and you will give them a great service by showing them how to deal with bedbugs if they ever have any.
I also suggest that you look around in the room and use the same bedbug barriers (scotch tape and talcum powder) to keep bedbugs from being able to climb up on the walls, in the adjacent furniture, light switches, electrical outlets, picture frames, headboards (if you have one), closets, drawers… etc. Keep bedbugs down to the floor where the traps will attract and catch foraging bedbugs when they come out of hiding.
The bedbug shield on the bed, the CO2 bedbug traps on the floor and the bedbug barriers in the room is the ultimate combination to get rid of bedbugs completely and permanently. How do we get rid of bedbugs for good? We starve them to death while we sleep soundly without a bite.
Here is the reason why bedbug barriers work:
__________ Or on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5sFz9jC-nQ
The best part of a do it yourself method is that if bedbugs ever return, you will eliminate them as fast as they get in. The CO2 Bedbug Trap will protect you for life, you will never be bothered by bedbugs again.
Pass it on.
JulesNoise
MissElectricCompany
Commentaire sur votre vidéo : CO2 Bedbug Trap – Making TrapsThanks for the demo—gonna try this….I have a very small infestation according to the bug guy. But he quoted $1000 for his service, I can’t do that. Gonna fight the good fight on my own. This seems like the home remedy according to my research. Thanks again for all the info.
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@__MissElectricCompany__Your talent is worth $1000, all you need is information. How to deal and defeat bedbugs with simple inexpensive means that always give 100% results.
Bedbugs are depicted as being undefeatable; nothing could be so far from the truth. Bedbugs are extremely vulnerable insects because they have only one source of food and if you take it away from them, they can only wither and die of starvation. And it is easy to control bedbugs with slippery barriers that keep bedbug from being able to climb up into our beds, couches, furniture, belongings, walls, ceiling or anywhere else in the room. The most effective bedbug barriers are made with simple scotch tape brushed with talcum powder.
And we can stop them from being able to feed with equally simple and inexpensive measures like a shield over the bed or couch which are the two principal places where bedbugs are, (70% in the bed and 23% in the couch). The principle is also very simple, as an example, if you get mosquito bites what would you do? To keep mosquitoes from being able to get to us and bite, we simply put screens in the windows and it stops all mosquito bites. It is so obvious that nobody questions it because it works every time. It is the same thing with bedbugs; all we need to do is to put a physical barrier between the bedbugs and ourselves. Since bedbugs are in the bed and couch, that physical barrier goes on the bed and couch and it stops all bedbug bites.
How do you make such a bedbug barrier? That is where a little knowledge of the bedbug comes in. Bedbugs are climbers with filament pincer hooks at the end of their legs. They are excellent climbers on any surface that gives them a grip, like wood, paper, fabric, clothes and even latex paint. But like any climber, bedbugs have a hard time climbing on smooth vertical surfaces like polished metal, glass, porcelain or any other hard surface that offers little or no grip for their hooks. And bedbugs cannot dig or chew their way through materials; they can only hide in existing cracks and crevices or in corners and underside of furniture parts, always away from the light.
So with that knowledge, we can make a barrier that will stop all bedbugs. The simplest and easiest barrier that anyone can make is a large sheet of plastic simply draped over the bed or couch with its sides hanging down and cut a small space above the floor. This works because bedbugs cannot walk through plastic, nor can they hang on to the smooth vertical sides of the plastic. The edge of the hanging plastic sides is particularly impossible for bedbugs to get across as their body cannot negotiate the 180 degree turn from the inner side of the plastic to the outer side, they always lose their grip and fall down to the floor. A bed or couch with a simple plastic sheet loosely draped over it always stops all bedbugs as long as its sides are hanging down and are not touching the floor. It can be done by anyone in only a few minutes.
That simple sheet of plastic does stop bedbugs from being able to bite and feed, it can and does eliminate any bedbug infestation. It is a quick fix solution but it can be very slippery and slip off and then you lose all your bedbug protection. It can also be sweaty and uncomfortable as plastic does not breathe. So to fix these two problems, we can fit the shield (barrier) to the bed or couch using fabric on the top side where we sit or rest, and this fabric cover will stay in place and will be permeable and comfortable. To keep bedbugs from being able to cross over from the underside to the topside since bedbugs easily crawl and climb on fabric, we add a band or strip of plastic to the hanging sides of this fabric cover. As described above, when bedbugs meet this vertical plastic, they cannot hang on anymore; lose their grip and fall down to the floor. Bedbugs cannot walk through fabric nor can they bite through fabric, they are completely stuck and trapped underneath the fabric cover without ever being able to feed. The plastic sides keeps them from being able to get to the top side.
This is exactly the same design that one of my friends uses to make commercial bedbug shields as I mentioned in an earlier message, the “Bed Sized Bed Bug Trap” that you can find with Google. His bedbug shield uses double sided tape instead of a plastic band at the edges of the fabric cover only because he wanted to make his own different than mine. If you did not look at it, do it now and you will see how easy it is to make a bedbug shield. With your talent you can do the same, first for yourself and maybe for others later, helping people who cannot do it for themselves, the elderly, the physically handicapped or anybody else stuck with the bedbug nightmare. Your services as a seamstress could be invaluable in the bedbug war and you could get paid for it.
With only a shield on the bed or couch, you can stop and eliminate bedbugs right down to the last one, but if you want to make the shield faster and even more efficient, make and place CO2 bedbug traps on the floor and under the shield. If the shield stops all and every bedbugs already in the bed or couch, the CO2 bedbug trap catches and eliminate bedbugs which are anywhere else in the room by making them come out of hiding by drawing them towards the bed where they are lured into small glass pitfalls that they cannot get out of. The combination of the shield and the traps is deadly for bedbugs, the shield blocks them and make them die of starvation and the traps catch them through their hunger when they come out of hiding. Adios bedbugs, they all end up dead.
Lastly, to make any place bedbug proof, all you need are bedbug barriers in the form of bands of scotch tape on the legs of the bed, couch, furniture and also above the baseboards of the walls to keep bedbugs from being able to go anywhere other than on the floor where the CO2 traps are and that will catch them because they have then nowhere else to go.
Sorry about the long explanation but I do not know of any other way to explain the bedbug shield and traps. My videos are sometimes confusing and make the shield and traps look like a lot of work but you will find out that it is not, only a few hours once and it solves the bedbug problem forever.
I am not a professional, nor do I do this for money. I am only a simple man with a computer trying to show and tell how I got rid of bedbugs and it works, in the last year I estimate over 30 000 people have used the trap and are now bedbug free. I want more, the shield and traps do not only eliminate bedbugs but also eliminate the exterminator.
If you wish, keep me informed of your progress, if you have any difficulties or need more information, do not hesitate to contact me because I want you to succeed and become bedbug free.
Best regards
JulesNoise
I’m killing the Bed Bugs FINALLY!!!
Julesnoise, you rock on man. we”ve implemented Your methods but still have a problem after 2 and a half years.bedbugs can live for 18 months without feeding. there is always the occasional sheet or blanket that slips to the floor WA LAA more bed bugs no matter how hard I try . Ive given up after spending thousands of dollars and hundreds of hrs trying to rid our house of these imortal creatures. Thanks anyway. rad man
Hi Randy,
Ouch,two and half years, thousands of dollars and hundred of hours and you still have bedbugs? You do not have a bedbug shield, I’m sure of that because a shield is a physical way to stop all bedbugs. A bedbug shield stops all bedbug bites, keeping them from feeding, from molting, from laying eggs and from being immortal, they simply die of starvation. under a shield.
Try one, do it yourself for less than 10$ and see bedbugs die while you sleep soundly without a bite. You have nothing to lose other than bedbugs, the CO2 Bedbug Trap method only costs are the materials that are locally found or you might already have at home.
[one regular fabric contour bed sheet, a strip of painter’s plastic 2 feet wide by 24 feet long, one roll of duct tape, one roll of masking tape, scissors and two good hands]
The idea is very simple, do not feed bedbugs if you want to get rid of them. If you still have bedbugs after two and half years it is because they can feed. You cannot be blamed for that, it is how bedbugs survive. Stop them, make your own bedbug shield.
A shield is an impenetrable physical barrier no bedbug can get through or around. Bedbugs are attracted to the warmth of the person sleeping on the bed and have easy access to repeated blood meals. And nobody tries to stop them but feel rage in the morning and it disturbs their life. I’m sure you know about the bedbug nightmare. A shield stops all that.
Bedbugs living for 18 months is a myth. Bedbugs like a lot of insects can live up to a year but only under certain conditions, hibernation. Insects metabolism depends on the temperature, the warmer it gets and the more active the insect is, and the colder it is the slower the insect becomes to stop completely when it gets to the freezing point. So bedbugs are not different and can survive in freezing cold (minus 20) up to a year. A little relevant fact about bedbugs in our comfortable heated home constantly kept at 70-80F. At those temperatures, bedbugs live only 2-3 months if and only if they are dormant and even less longer if they are kept active by the constant presence of a human being, the source of their food. The shield lasts longer than any bedbug can live, even the mythical bedbug.
Don’t worry about the occasional bed sheet touching the floor. Within a few weeks there will be no more bedbugs roaming around, especially if you have CO2 bedbug traps on the floor, they will all be in bedbug pitfalls under the bed or underneath the shield hopelessly trying to feed. Bedbugs normally feed every week or so and they will all try and will all be stopped by the shield. It is an bedbug impasse, a trap. Once bedbugs get underneath the shield, they do not go back down to the floor. They willingly stay stuck under the shield trying to find a way through it and they will not walk away so close to their unreachable food. Hunger kills bedbugs, all you have to do is keep them from feeding.
As the last method to get rid of bedbug, make them starve to death. Bedbugs are not resistant to that. Remember the rhyme? Good night, sleep tight, don’t let the bedbug bite! That’s what this method is all about.
This is the end of bedbugs. JulesNoise
Hello. I found out about a month ago my apartment has bed bugs. My children and myself have bites. You tube videos are so confusing to me. And im so frustrated to the point of crying. I dont understand the shield. You just drape a piece of plastic over beds and box springs and cut it a cpl inches off the floor…then tape the plastic to the bed? Around the box spring? Place co2 traps under each corner? Please describe this as you are talking to a stupid person because I do not understand. What should I
Use for my traps? Ive seen so manhy different ways; water bottles, yogurt cups, straw, no straw. Ugh. Im just so co fused please help me!
Hi MissChristine87,
I will not talk to you as if you were a stupid person, I would rather talk to you as a friend who would like to know how to make something that will protect your children and yourself against stupid bedbugs.
I admit the videos I made could be confusing. First they show how to make traps and there are too many of them using different ways and not showing how and where to use them, and then there is that shield which is clearly different than the traps, a plastic sheet of all things, and what does it do and where do you put it… I understand that it could be frustrating, so thank you for contacting me for a better explanation.
The shield and the traps are two things but they work together. The more important of the two is the shield, so we will start by making this one.
A bedbug shield is a barrier that keeps bedbug from being able to bite That is the most important thing to do, to keep bedbugs from being able to feed. That is why we have bedbugs, because they can and do feed by biting us. Bedbugs have only one source of food, our blood. If you take their food away from them, bedbugs lose their only way to feed.
Bedbugs are totally dependent on our blood, without our blood, bedbugs cannot molt and grow; without our blood, bedbugs cannot lay eggs and multiply; and without our blood, bedbugs cannot survive and they simply die of starvation.
That is why we need a shield, to keep them from being able to feed. A shield can be a simple sheet of plastic that we put over the mattress. Bedbugs cannot walk through plastic, so they remain stuck underneath the sheet of plastic and they cannot bite anymore. We can sleep soundly on top of a shield without getting a bite and there is nothing bedbugs can do about it. That’s how I got rid of all my bedbugs.
You were right, the most simple way to make a bedbug shield is to just drape a piece of plastic over beds and box springs and cut it a cpl inches off the floor. It works everytime and keeps bedbugs from being able to get to the top were we can sleep without getting a bite.
A few details about how to make it and how to fix or hold it in place. If you had a bed that can be detached from its headboard, after draping the sheet of plastic over the mattress, all you would have to do would be to hold it in place with the regular elastic contour sheet and after cutting it a few inches above the floor, it would be done.
(If you are not using a contour sheet on your beds, your regular bed sheets will do as long as you tie them up around the mattress so that they do not slip off, anything will do to tie them up around the sides of the mattress.)
(To keep the mattress from being too sweaty, add a thick sheet (wool is suggested) or comforter on top of the mattress plastic before putting on the contour sheet.)
But most beds cannot be detached from their headboards or footboards, especially children’s beds. So the headboard and footboard must be covered too so that no bedbugs can get through or around it. That is the easiest way, but is it not the best looking. Another way would be to cover only the mattress and box spring, cutting the plastic to go around the frame, sealing the cut to the frame and around it. The exposed headboard and footboard can be treated with 91% rubbing alcohol to kill all bedbugs that might be in joints and interstices, applying wax to seal those joints and interstices after using (brushing or spraying) rubbing alcohol on them. To keep bedbugs on the floor to be able to climb back on the headboard and footboard, talcum powder can be brushed on the legs and any part that touches the walls. Talcum powder is also called baby powder and is totally harmless, but it makes any vertical surface too slippery for bedbugs to climb on.
It could sound like a lot of work, but you will see that it is not once you get the hang of it and understand how to make it like part of making the bed.
The shield takes care and stops all and any bedbugs that are in the bed Up to 90% of all bedbugs in the bed, that is why it is important to make the shield so that no bedbugs can get through or around it.
Now, let’s look at the bedbug traps. Bedug traps work and catch bedbugs that are on the floor as well as bedbugs that are anywhere else in the room. It is the shield that stops them and keep them from biting while the traps catch roaming bedbugs either from the room or bedbugs trying to escape from underneath the shield by going down back to the floor.
A bedbug trap is essentially a pitfall that bedbugs fall into without being able to get out of. It is the oldest trap in the world, chasing or luring a prey into a pit to catch it.
Bedbugs are climbers and easily climb on rough, fibrous or uneven surfaces with the tiniest asperities, such as wood, paper, fabric, clothes, and also on smoother but soft surfaces like certain plastic and paint. On the other hand, they hve more difficulties on smooth hard surfaces like glass, porcelain, ceramics or polished metal.
So to make a bedbug pitfall, all you need is a simple ordinary drinking glass. Relative to their size, that glass become a deep pit from which they cannot get out. The outside of that glass must be covered with a material they can easily climb on so they can get to the top and being lured further into it fall inside the glass and the insde being too smooth to climb back, be stuck into it. to make any vertical smooth surface even more difficult to climb on, brush talcum powder on them. Talcum powder make the best bedbug barriers in the world, they slip, they slide, lose their grip and always fall back to the floor (or inside the glass). Remember I suggested to put talcum powder on the legs of the legs of the headboard? Well it can be used most everywhere you want to keep bedbugs out of. If the vertical surface is not smooth enough, simply verically apply a band of scotch tape that you brush with talcum powder and it becomes inpossible for bedbugs to get across.
You cannot chase bedbugs into a glass pitfall, you need a lure to attract them into it. One of the two lures that attract bedbugs is CO2. CO2 is a gas that is part of our respiration, that is why it attracts bedbugs when we sleep. They detect and follow CO2 to try to get to us.
We can make CO2 to mimic the respiration of a human. It is the bottle (s), plastic containers that hold a mixture of sugar and yeast in lukewarm water. That mixture is fermentation and produces ethanol in the water and CO2 as a by-product. It is the CO2 that interest us. It form into the bottle or container and is directed into the glass pitfall with a straw.
That’s all there is in making a bedbug trap. The size, shape or design of the container does not matter, it is only something to hold the mixture, so you can use anything you want or is handy for you.
The straw is only a conduit or a small pie to sent the CO2 from the mixture container and to the glass pitfall. It is a substitute for an airline that we find in petshop and used in aquarium. A substitute because it is easier to find while being much less costly. Other bedbug traps without straws or tubing simply let the CO2 flow down into a larger plastic pitfall inside of which we place the mixture container.It is because we can make bedbug trap out of so many different things that there are also many different bedbug traps. Make your own out of what is convenient for you.
Now the mixture that produces CO2:
__2 cups of sugar
__one envelope of yeast (Fleischmann’s found in most grocery stores)
__2 liters (quarts) minus one glass of water at 100°F or 40°C
(the volume of one glass of water is replaced by the sugar and the final mixture remains 2 liters)
Pour everything in a large pitcher and mix well.
Let is sit for +/- 10 minutes until small bubbles begin to rise and form a ring or a thin layer of foam on to.
Transfer the final mixture into the bottles or containers, whichever you made your traps with.
To know if the mixture is producing CO2, the liquid should be light tan and cloudy with very tiny bubbles slowly rising within the mixture, a slight odor of baked bread could be smelled. If you used straws or a tubing with your trap, putting the end of the strwa or tubimg in a second glass of water should allow you to see larger bubbles coming out of the straw or tubing in the water of that second Glass. If it does, then your trap is working just fine and replace the end of the straw in the glass pitfall.
You have everything, the shield on the bed and one trap behind each leg of the bed. Bedbugs in the bed will be stopped by the shield and will not be able to bite, they will die of starvation within a few weeks. Traps on the floor will catch foraging bedbugs on the floor and from the room. No bedbug will be able to feed and you will hardly see them dying while you go back to normal living without worrying about bedbugs.
Please tell me if there are obscure points, MissChristine87, I would like to follow your progressand resolve any difficulties you might have, and I would like to say to you soon, “You are bedbug free”
With all my respect
JulesNoise
I want to do exactly what your suggesting because it’s the only thing that makes sense and the fact I’ve spent $1000s already on products used by the professionals and applied it just as they would and followed it up for months has left me back at square one. My house is covered in DE and all the residuals sprays have run their course. I had to pull my little girls as if from fire in the middle of the night from the bed as I went in to take away the iPad they slept with. There was a dead bed bug on it. I uncovered them to see one more leaving the scene. I nearly cried. Yanking my girls from the bed. They were shocked into barely consciousness. One had bug still on her. Had them change undergarments, checked them out and put them in another room. We thought we got them from months ago but my oldest kept getting bit didn’t know from where. Expensive mattress covers the DE literally everywhere in every crack even under their mattress. The problem is (one of many) is that my girls have an all wood double over full bunk bed with droors on the bottom and for the top full bed the kind you get from Gothic Cabinet. I believe the bedbugs came with the bunk bed. We never had a problem with the old beds they had. Sorry for the long story but I just don’t know who else to lament to. Your shield idea sounds ideal but what can be constructed for a bunk bed which has no real barrier between the mattress and the wood frame it sits in? The whole bunk bed itself sits on the floor completely. There is no legs. My daughter’s body is a patchwork of new and old bite marks which she can’t help but scratch at and make it hideously painful to note. Please help me and my family. Right now I have the room’s entrance ducttaped but folded over so it’s sticky all the way around around the perimeter of the door in case they try to leave and follow the girls to the next room. I’ve bagged their clothes and I’m going to throw their books in the dryer (can I even do that?) for 20 minutes or so. I’m considering getting a better steamer as the one I bought from bedbugsupply suddenly has no business with them. They found out it was a worthless psi (they found out after I purchased it from them, figures). If I steam I lose all the powder I put down. Ughhhh! Please help me and my girls! :'(
Extremelydesperate Vick
@__ Beyondtears
Bedbug Shield for Seamstress, anybody can make a bedbug shield, but seamstresses make the best ones. A simple fabric cover is enough to stop bedbugs as long as it has a band of plastic hanging a toe space above the floor to keep bedbugs from being able to go on the top side. So a seamstress can make custom fabric covers serving as bedbug shields to fit any shape or size of bed, couch, armchair, cot, futon… etc where bedbug thrive, and stop the bedbug infestation.
When lamentations are not heard by more than one, but the right one, they become positive and get you some help. We will do this step by step, the important first.
Bunk beds are very practical but really complicated to cover with a shield. I’m a tinkerer and I make do with what I got to get the same results, from a simple mattress on the floor as for the ultimate challenge, the bunk bed. Bunk beds give the bedbug easy access and a lot of places to hide. Easy target for a bedbug.
Bunk beds can be made impervious to the passage of bedbugs by using bedbug barriers, simply something that will keep bedbugs from being able to climb up into them. Bedbug barriers are really simple and really inexpensive; anybody can make bedbug barriers with scotch tape and talcum powder. That’s all it takes to stop bedbugs from climbing up on any vertical surface. The slick shiny side of the scotch tape is difficult for bedbugs to hang on to but when it is brushed with talcum powder, it becomes impossible, too slippery for any bedbug to get a grip on it. They slip, slide and always fall down to the floor. The difficulty is to apply the scotch tape so that there is no pathway the bedbug could use to get around it.
I’ll get a few pictures of bunk beds and see where the bedbug barriers should be applied. I’ll come back to you with that later.
An alternative would be to kill all the bedbugs in the bunk bed in a single shot with pure solid CO2. Dry ice in a plastic bag kills bedbugs by suffocating them with pure CO2. Next day, the bunk bed can be used safely cleared of all bedbugs. It involves a very large sheet of plastic (+/- 10$), 10-15 pounds of dry ice(+/- 15$), an extra pair of hands to lift and move the whole bunk bed in the middle of the plastic. As protection from remaining bedbugs still in the room, use ½” high plastic or metal floor protectors that bedbugs will not be able to climb on. Those floor protectors will elevate the whole bed enough so that bedbugs will not be able to reach and grip it. The bunk bed also has to be ½” away from the walls.
Think about it, Bedbug barriers is the easiest and more permanent solution, but killing all the bedbugs in the bunk bed at once has its appeal too. Both involve some work, more for the dry ice procedure, but they both deal with the most probable harborage, the bunk bed.
Let’s get the ball rolling and turn a nightmare into being proud of ourselves.
JulesNoise
Hello, I purchased a used wooden bed with bed bugs… All is wood including the rails, headboard, and footboard… I have tossed the mattress… I first noticed the bugs on my comfortable and on my sheets… I purchased some spray and de on amazon… Still seeing them 5 total this week… 2 small brown and three white… 2 in the room and 3 in the hallway…. Im not sleeping inside the home just checking daily in hopes to find them gone… I need a way to get rid of them and I have carpet as well… Please help me
I every time spent my half an hour to read this weblog’s
articles or reviews every day along with a cup of coffee.
I should write a book. The Life and the Death of the Bedbug.
Bedbugs are stupid insects that evolved on a single source of food. Take that source of food away from them and bedbugs are condemned to die of starvation. That’s what I call stupid. Anybody with a little understanding of the bedbug strenghts and weaknesses can easily defeat them.
They are climbers, make it impossible for them to climb. They are blood suckers, take our blood away from them. Use their hunger against them, lure them into small glass pitfalss from wich they cannot get out of. Like any other living creature, they need oxygen to breathe, fill the small glass pitfalls with CO2 and suffocate them. They are blocked by a shield, enjoy starving them to death while you sleep safely and soundly.
Anybody can make a trap. We use the most common and available materials to be found anywhere. The least expensive too, it is not worth spending hard-earned money on bedbugs when we can so easily get rid of them ourself.
Having or soon to have read all that there is to bedbugs, you will discover that bedbugs are no threat and certainly no challenge for one who uses its greatest power, his brain. That’s what you are doing in these half-hour enjoying your coffee.
Best regards
JulesNoise
I live in a house but its broke into 2 apts, the people downstairs and me upstairs. We both have these damn bugs. I have done a lot of research and im doing everything i run into to get rid of these pest. The people downstairs is to. I’ve been telling them about everything i have found and doing so we are both treating the apts together. I got a few questions that hopefully you can awnser for me. I read your post about the home made bed bug sheild using painters plastic. i have a bed but it has no headboard and no bed frame and no box spring because the apt is to small for it but i do have a mattress on the floor and then another mattress on top of that,so basically 2 mattress put together how would i make the bed bug shield?? Would i do it like a regular bed or like a futon mattress on the floor?? Or is there a different way i need to do this??…… Can i just seal up the bed with the plastic without using the traps?? I t hh ought about using the traps in the middle of the floor not under the bed,can i do that or do they have to be under the bed??….. and i do not understand the crib bed bug sheild, can you give me av little more detail on the crib part?? I dont see how you explained it will work on the crib i have. My babys due in 3 weeks and i gotta get this stuff done and ready. Hope to hear from you soon. Thank you sooo much, 1-of your fans
Hi Chrissy,
Your baby is due in three weeks, you needed not say more to get me to do anything I can to help you. You will need help and I hope you can get your neighbor to give you a hand, I will show both of you how to stop and eliminate bedbugs
You already know about the shield and the traps but miss a few details how to do it. The shield and the traps are the most effective non-poisonous way to get rid of bedbugs. When you use a shield what you are really doing is to take away any food, the only food bedbugs have. Just like any creature on this planet, bedbugs need to feed to survive, and the shield takes away any food bedbugs absolutely need.
Bedbugs feed exclusively on blood, nothing else. If you control the only food bedbugs can take, our warm blood, then you control bedbugs. Without our warm blood to feed on, bedbugs cannot molt and grow. Without our warm blood to feed on, bedbugs cannot lay eggs and multiply. Without our warm blood to feed on, bedbugs simply cannot feed and die of starvation.
Seems simple doesn’t it? It is a simple as that. So let’s go in details about your shield first. You have a double mattress on the floor. This is the easiest access bedbugs can have and they can get directly in your bed from any angle in the room. In a case like this, it is best to enclose the bottom mattress inside a sealed plastic encasement. This first homemade encasement can be made with a painter’s plastic and 2″ clear wrapping tape. Place the bottom mattress on the floor and lifl and tape the plastic to the sides of the mattress. This is the reason I said to get some help from your neighbor, lifting and moving a mattress in your late pregnancy. Then turn it upside down and put a second sheet of plastic on the other side, and then seal the two sheets of plastic together to form a sealed encasement that will entomb any bedbugs or eggs that might be in this bottom mattress. Use a needle to make 20-30 holes in the top plastic, holes too smal for any bedbug to be able to get in or out of this first plastic encasement but allow air to come in and out of the mattress as you use it.
The second mattress, the top one also has to be esealed in a n homemade mattress encasement, but in the case of this second mattress, use one of your regular fabric contour sheets, the one with the elastic and that some people also call a fitted sheet. The reason to use a fabric contour sheet instead of plastic for the top part of the second mattress is for comfort as plastic thends to be slippery and sweaty.
Making these two encasements will first entomb any bedbugs that might be in the mattresses, but it will also keep any bedbugs from being able to climb on the plastic and reach you while you sleep at night. This is due to the fact that if bedbugs can easily climb on fabric 9also on paper, cardboard, wood, latex paint; they can not clim on anything hard and smooth like glass. ceramic. porcelain, polished metal and various hard plastic such as painter’s plastic when it is vertical, like it is on the sides of the encasements of the mattress. Here is an example of live bedbugs trying and failing to get on vertcal or upside down plastic: Bedbug Barriers – Stop All Bedbugs and Eliminate Them! ___ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5sFz9jC-nQ. This can be used to make bedbug barriers, keeping bedbugs from being able to go up anywhere in the room. Not in the bed, not in the furniture, not in your belongings, not on the walls and not on the ceiling.
With two mattress encasements, no bedbug will be able to get to you and no bedbug will be able to bite, feed on your blood, all bedbug bite will stop at once and you will not have another bedbug bite. The only additional precautions are that the mattress should not touch the walls or any furniture. Two mattresses on the floor could not be high enough so that bed sheets could touch the floor, giving bedbugs a path to get up and reach you, so we must kake sure that the bedb sheets never touch the floor at any time, wrapping yourself in the sheets at night and tucking the sheets between the two mattresses day time. It is the old trick: … sleep tight, don’t let the bedbugs bite.
For your neighbor, his shield might be different if his bed is different than yours, it simply might be the regular bedbug shield that is shown on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Wy-ry66A7U. I suggest that we team up with your neighbor to find the best shield that will fit his specific bed arrangement.
A crib arrangement is also different than a shield for the bed of an adult. In fact, a crib is much more simple than a bed. Cribs are much easier to handle and already have a mattress encasement. Cribs can be moved around and can be cleared of bedbugs with 91% rubbing alcohol. Do not spray rubbing alcohol on the crib but use a paint brush dipped in alcohol to kill bedbugs in any joint, corner (especially on the undersides of the crib, crack or interstice where bedbugs usually hide. Flat smooth surfaces can be wiped with a sponge with alcohol in it as there are no places where bedbug can hide ion those flat smooth surfaces. To make sure that bedbugs cannot climb up using the legs of the crib, simply wrap a band of 1/2 inch scotch tape on the lower part of the legs of the crib. Scotch tape works exactly like the barriers shown above and keeps bedbugs from being able to reach the baby while he is in the crib.
All of sudden with shield on the bed and barriers on the crib, no bedbug is able to get to you while you sleep and all bedbug bites stop. Bedbugs cannot feed off your warm blood anymore and bedbugs begin to starve, until they used all their energy and death awaits bedbugs.
CO2 bedbug traps catch bedbugs on the floor. They are detectors of bedbug presence and they will catch any bedbug that comes out of hiding from anywhere in the room and go towards the bed in trying to feed. Bedbug traps works on the hunger of bedbugs, waiting for them to come out and catching them when they move. Traps are particularly handy with bedbug barriers that keeps bedbugs down and catch them on the floor.
There are many ways to make bedbug traps. A few suggestions are: A simple bedbug trap ___ http://julesnoise.com/2014/10/27/a-simple-bedbug-trap/, Easiest and Fastest Bedbug Trap ever ___ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlpsDjat1KI, Making a CO2 Bedbug Trap with Plastic Containers ___ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWd5dBdyqVc. You can even be creative with bedbug traps, one of my previous correspondent having made bedbug traps with flower vases (artificial flowers of course as they will not live in the sugar and yeast mixture Her traps are real nice: https://julesnoise.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/very-creative-bedbug-trap.jpg.
The best place to set up a CO2 bedbug trap are next to the bed if they cannot fit underneath it and also one under the crib to monitor bedbug presence on the floor. It is also best to place the traps next to a wall and out of the way so they do not get knocked down by normal activities.
And that’s it. You will have the protection of the shields on the bed to keep bedbugs from being able to bite and feed off you. You will have the protection of the barriers that will keep bedbugs from being able to go anywhere, and you will have the protection of the traps that will catch bedbugs when they move. No more bites, no sighting of bedbugs and no more traces of bedbugs. Doesn’t that sound like the end of bedbugs?
Here is something I did not mention yet. I believe it is criminal to make a newborn baby live in poison for months. The Permethrin they use is ten times more toxic for a baby than for an adult. I eliminate bedbugs for the sake of eliminating a parasite, but it also eliminate poison-pushers by taking bedbugs away from them.
You will find that collaboration with your neighbor is mutually beneficial and excellent for relations, including relations with the landlord who saves money whenevr tenants take care of bedbugs by themselves.
If you need anything or more information, please do not hesitate to contact me again and together we will get rid of the bedbug problem.
Life-givers have my deepest respect. Thank you
JulesNoise